Simply put, it’s better living through chemistry. My grandfather used to use silkworm gut fly leaders, which were at best, unreliable. Frankly, looking back at our sport, it is a true testament to the persistence of the originators that they were able to fish with some of the gear they had to suffer with.
When my grandfather wanted to go fishing, he’d need to soak his leaders for at least an hour before he started. Silkworm gut, which is silk filament that were collected and subjectively graded by the manufacturer (gee, that looks like a 2x), was in turn a vast improvement over braided horse hair, which had been in use since the time of Isaac Walton.
The advent of Nylon Monofilament might be considered the single most cathartic point in the evolution of saltwater flyfishing. It is the singular event that marks the turning point where mass popularity of the sport became possible.
In the beginning, monofilament wasn’t all it could be. Extrusion techniques in the 30’s (it was patented in 1938), the 40’s (okay, we had bigger issues to worry about) and the 50’s were not all that they could be. Hence the materials were prone to problems as the industry learned what went into making a quality monofilament leader.
The advent of Fluorocarbon leader material in the mid-eighties brought on a new age in leader construction. It is now possible to buy pre-extruded leaders that are virtually invisible to fish. No knots to hang weeds, etc.
The funny thing is that the whole leader thing seems to have missed anglers north of Cape Cod. I perennially run into anglers who use a single section of 15 lb. Mono for stripers. There was even a period of some rather nasty posts a few years ago on our forum which as much as said suggested I was an idiot for using any more knots in my leader than absolutely necessary. Well, I may be an idiot, but my use of graduated leaders is no evidence of it. I guess if my knot tying skills were unreliable, I’d be worried. I am not…
So why would you use a graduated leader to fish the Boston area. First off, a well-apportioned leader will turn a big, wet fly over. You may have seen what happens when the fly does not turn over – your fly line rolls out, then the leader and fly land somewhat of a pile at the end of the cast. This result can also be achieved easily by not stopping the line at the end of the cast, but that is a subject for a later date.
I generally use a monofilament leader that’s around 9 feet long when I fish with an intermediate line and standard fly (i.e. not a Clouser). I start with a short butt section of 30 lb. Test that’s nail knotted and glued to the fly line, with a Homer Rhodes knot or non-slip loop.
Then I can create my leaders with a loop on the end and swap them out at will with a loop-to- loop connection. I generally use 36” of 35 lb., 24” of 30, 18” of 25, 12” of 20, 6”of 15, and 18” of whatever the final tippet size will be, usually 12 lb. That’d usually turn over your 1974 Pinto…
If I mix and match mono with a fluorocarbon tippet, then that connection is always made loop-to-loop as the two dissimilar materials don’t seem to tie very good standard knots. I do not use a Homer Rhodes knot in the tippet or smaller leader sections, as they tend to break (seems to be fine in heavier leader sections). I generally opt for something like a surgeons loop. Sections of the leader are connected with blood knots.
Of course, you can buy some darned fine extruded fluorocarbon leaders. If you don’t mind paying for them, these are a great option, as weeds cannot catch on knots if there are no knots…
For sinking lines, I generally opt for a much shorter and simpler leader construction, and have been known to use straight 15 lb. Test. I like to keep the leader short, to allow the line to do it’s work and get the fly down deep.
Capt. Wayne Frieden comments:
I also like a graduated leader and generally use a 5-7' leader ( 3' of 30 Big Game and 2' section 20 lb. fluro) when using fast sink lines and a bit longer (9') for floaters. If the fish are finicky, I'll sometimes go to all flurocarbon and down to a 12lb test tippet. Obviously, I'm not after any IGFA records.
Capt. Dave Bitters of Baymen Outfitters prefers to stick with single test leaders:
For fly rod leader set-ups on all our charters, I prefer straight Ande 15lb clear mono, in 5 foot sections as my leader and tippet. Ditto for all of my light tackle gear. I change up my leaders and tippets daily before every trip out on the bay. I can't remember every losing a fish because the leader or tippets broke or the knots gave way. I use a double surgeons knot and then square knot the sections together. This is simple and easy and fast. And it's a very, very strong, positive connection. For fly or lure connections, I prefer the improved clinch knot. The trick is to always wet the line with your spit before cinching the knots down. And they MUST be cinched down firm. Knots only break for two reasons. The stress exceeds the breaking strength of the line/knot or the knot slips!
There is one exception for my fly tippets. When we toss crab patterns to tailing fishing on the flats, I'll go to eight feet of fluorocarbon in 12lb or 16lb test. In this case, we are using floating lines and fishing to spooky stripers and a more gentle presentation is needed in the skinny water.
Lastly, if we are into the toothy fish like blues, we break out the 50lb Ande and change it up every couple of fish. The double surgeons knots and all pre-tied and it only takes seconds to replace a tippet.
Tight lines & screaming reels!
Capt. David Bitters
BAYMEN Outfitters, Duxbury, MA.
Okay, that’s my take. Your mileage may vary. Leaders are the type of subject that often generates a lot of debate, often bordering on religion. Let’s here your recipe – post the the NE Forum!