The father of an old girlfriend once expressed amazement and a touch of disapproval when he discovered I knew how to cook after I made the ingrate a late night omelet. The older generation still thinks it is extremely sissy-like for a guy to know how to cook. Real men order take-out or wait around, with big eyes, for a woman to serve them something.
I hope my mother doesn’t read this, because my brothers and I learned how to cook out of pure survival instinct. It was cook or risk starvation. Mother was a fan of anything that was frozen, brown, covered with gravy, and which lived in five-pound disposable pans. ("Alex, I’ll take Mystery Meat for $500: What is Salisbury Steak?")
She had breakfast down -- fried eggs and ham for a decade -- but the rest of the time it was kitchen roulette.
My grandmother was a product of the Great Depression and thought gelatin was a major food group. She reached rock bottom with a lime Jello disaster that she made in a bundt mold. Somehow she managed to suspend the laws of gravity and suspend-- through the center of the green, quivering ring -- a tube of horseradish-flavored mayonnaise. Newspaper recipes were her cookbook. Toasted Chickenfish anyone? (major bonus points to anybody who knows the name of the author of the Chickenfish recipe. Hint: it resulted in an official reprimand of newspaper columnist Mike Royko) Grandmother treated a can of Spam like it was chateaubriand: crosshatched with a knife, studded with a half-dozen cloves, and topped with a ring of Dole pineapple and a red maraschino cherry, then oiled down with a squirt of Log Cabin.
Fish was rarely on the menu in my childhood unless it came out of a box, was pre-breaded, and could be cooked on a cookie sheet in under an hour in a 450 degree oven. My father, the original meat-and-potato man, forbade fish or chicken in the house. Chicken, because he had a phobia of chickens due to his World War II duties as keeper of the household chicken coop; fish, because his mother would can bluefish with a pressure cooker in Mason jars to lay up some protein for the winter months.
My brother and I took the tale of canned bluefish as pure Cape Cod legend, up there with stealing coal and catching cabbages that fell off of trucks as part of the "penny-saved-penny earned" lectures we were subjected to whenever the old gent finished paying the monthly bills and decided we would live without electricity for the next month (his favorite economizing move was to make orange juice with the frozen stuff but forbid it ever being shaken or stirred. The idea was to add more water over time, allowing the orange sausage of concentrate to hang on the bottom of the bottle, pale orange water above it).
The canned bluefish was just a quaint myth until I cleaned out the cellar last winter and found a sixty-year old Mason jar filled with what appeared to be a pickled demon fetus from the Omen IV. We opened it on the front lawn while wearing heavy rubber gloves. The grass is still dead there, like some sort of crop circle left by aliens.
Here are some recipes from the Churbuck Culinary Academy of Ruined Food, courtesy of my predecessors who never met a fish they could stomach:
Honey, the Dog Is Eating Grass Again Bluefish
- Take one bluefish, preferably one caught early in the morning and then thrown into the stern of the motorboat back by the scupper plugs where it can curl, get stiff in the sun and baste all afternoon in a rainbow patina of gasoline and two-stroke outboard oil.
- Filet with a rusty knife, taking care to leave scales and the rib bones in the flesh.
- Leave the dark meat in the fish. For that is where the PCBs are most concentrated.
- Take a cookie sheet. Preferably the kind that warps into a pretzel shape with a loud "thwang" when heated. Cover with aluminum foil. I don’t know if the shiny or dull side up matters or not.
- Do not grease the foil. The fish must stick to the foil so your guests will have the electric thrill of finding out what happens with foil meets one of their fillings.
- With the meat side up cover the bluefish with a one-inch thick layer of Miracle Whip, the evil stepsister of Hellman’s Mayo.
- Bake or broil (it just doesn’t matter) until the Miracle Whip is kind of browned like a meringue.
- Serve, and then remember you forgot to make any kind of side dish. Dig out some freezer-burned Tater Tots and bake in the oven until lukewarm while the fish gets cold.
- Eat. Feel bad. Then start drinking. Get angry at nothing in particular and call your nearest relation "a leech who contributes nothing" or "an oxygen thief" and then start a mallet fight with the kids’ croquet set on the lawn in front of the horrified neighbors. Ask them what they are looking at.
Amber’s Kill the Schoolie Surprise
Take one woefully undersized striped bass because your eight-year old niece, Amber the Ritalin addict from Athol, caught it and her parents don’t give a hoot about the 28" limit because Amber caught it and Amber is going to eat her first fish taken on her first fishing trip, in her first boat, on her first ocean. The fun part is smuggling the fish ashore so someone you know doesn’t see you taking short fish and drops a dime on you with the Environmental Police (who don’t exist anyway).
Photograph the fish like paparazzi hounding Sean Penn outside a Hollywood bar. Don’t worry, unlike Sean it won’t fight back or spit at you. Permit Amber to drop it in the dirt a few times for seasoning.
Do your best to make Amber cry when you start to cut it up. Then decide that maybe Amber needs to experience the joys of eating a whole fish. Leave the head and scales on but take out the guts. Show Amber what was in the fish’s stomach. Tell her that the partially digested sand eel is really a little girl’s little finger.
Fill the stomach cavity with stuff from the bottom of the vegetable drawer: limp celery, nasty scallion stalks, a whole unpeeled clove of garlic and a brown lemon. Sew up the cavity with needle and thread and tell Amber that’s what they do to the lips of shrunken heads before they shrink them.
Place in shallow baking dish. Send complaining children to corner store for a bottle of Kraft’s Italian Salad Dressing. Pour entire bottle of salad dressing over the fish. Bake or broil (it doesn’t really matter), until you’re not sure if the fish is done or not.
Serve with great ceremony to Amber and her parents. Discover on first bite that a) THERE ARE BONES IN MY FISH! and b) THIS FISH IS RAW!
Call Pizza One, Subs Two and order a large linguica and bacon pizza and a couple Steak Bombs for your heart. Leave the fish behind the garage and attract varmints to your property. They won’t be back again and neither will Athol Amber and her parents.
Found in a Fat Man’s Underpants Sushi
Congratulations, you finally caught a bonito. Next week you will win Megabucks or be struck by lightning. Now you too can hang around the coffee maker at work and tell that blowhard Mike from Receiving that you are a member of the Super Elite Bonito club. Forget all the recipes that bonito-heads have told you about. No one catches enough of them to know what to do with them.
Don’t bleed the fish. It makes a mess. Don’t ice the fish because you didn’t bring any ice and who the heck expects to catch a fish anyway? Follow the photography advice in the Kill the Schoolie Surprise. The more pictures the better. Take the pictures out front by the sidewalk so people will see that you have caught a bonito. Tell them it is a Giant Bluefin if they ask you what it is.
Attempt to clean the fish and discover that bonito don’t follow the rules of fish skeletons and have an internal structure devised by M.C. Escher. Waste an inordinate amount of precious bonito meat trying to figure out why the damn thing won’t filet like a bluefish.
Leave the meat on the cutting board while you run to your computer to Google this recipe. Flies will land on it, defecate, and lay their eggs.
Realize that you do not have:
1. Wasabi
2. Sheets of seaweed
3. Sushi rice
4. A bamboo sushi mat
5. Rice vinegar
6. A clue.
Drive to Stop and Shop and spend a mere $50 on the aforementioned non-essentials. More flies will flavor the fish while you are gone.
Come home. Boil water for the rice. Read the instructions, for sushi rice is unlike any other kind of rice and requires a summa cum laude chemistry major from Worcester Polytechnic Institute to pull off successfully. Give up. The rice will be ruined and guess what? It needs to chill for a couple hours before you can use it. Don’t bother chilling. It won’t matter.
Slice up the bonito into little strips. Lay a sheet of seaweed on the bamboo mat. Lay a blob of steaming rice on the seaweed. Stick some bonito on the rice. Roll the whole mess up like a big fish spliff. Mix up the wasabi powder with some water. Cut the fish spliff up into sushi rings and realize that the hot rice has made the seaweed soggy and it won’t cut. (take solace, a sushi chef serves a 33-year apprenticeship and you’ve been at it for only an hour)
Pile the torn seaweed, steaming rice, wasabi and precious bonito on a fancy, vaguely Asian looking platter and share with friends. Remember, in Japanese cuisine, presentation is everything, so use your fingers and make a pretty design. Like a smiley face. Dare one of your friends to eat a piece of wasabi big enough to cover his or her thumbnail. Go into hysterics when the fool actually does it, has an asthma attack, and begs to be taken to the emergency room for a tracheotomy.
In thirty seconds, after it is all gone, realize you have spent $50 dollars for a bad appetizer and have ruined a pan with sushi rice which has set more solidly than a broken-down cement truck. Ah so.
You can stare at the sushi rice, stale seaweed, rice vinegar, and wasabi powder for the next five years in your pantry just in case you win the lottery and catch another bonito.
Got a favorite bad fish recipe? Share them with the gang in the forums.
News of the week: Ah, August already? Okay, other than some wicked humidity and oppressive heat, what was your excuse for not fishing this past week? The first hurricane of the season just churned by the coast, kicking up some totally rad and tubular surf along the south-facing shores of the islands. Dude. Just say whoa. The north side still seems like the place to be. The water is cooler and like humans, fish dig cooler water. Outer Cape anglers are beside themselves with mung and seals. Nantucket Sound is pretty barren except for ratty bluefish and fluke and the bonito are still taking their time in showing up to mess with our heads. What’s a poor fly fisherman to do? Mow the lawn? The best is yet to be, so take a chill pill and go mini-golfing or wait for the hot weather and hurricane to push some summer speedsters into our neighborhood. Or prove me wrong and email me a report of your success.