One of angling’s best but least appreciated writers is Robert Traver, the pen name of John D. Voelker, an attorney better known for his great crime novel and the Oscar-winning movie made from it, Anatomy of a Murder, which starred Jimmy Stewart, Lee Remick, and Frank Sinatra.. Traver was an associate justice on the bench of the Michigan Supreme Court, and wrote great things about fishing that fishy state’s Upper Peninsula.
Traver's essay, The Fish Car, is a classic of the sort of fishing writing I love. Not so much the "fierce headshaking" and "tossed diamonds of spray" and "singing reels" genre of angling prose as good ruminations on the prosaic side of the angling lifestyle. You can find The Fish Car in a collection, Traver on Fishing, edited by Nick Lyons.
I can’t quote from The Fish Car because I have a hopeless faith in all of my fishing books’ ability to find their way home to me after being loaned in a fit of stupidity to one houseguest after another. They never come back -- the good ones never do (books that is, bad houseguests are like boomerangs or those get-a-life Disney pets that walk 3,500 miles to find their families) -- and much as I curse and swear never to loan another book, I know it won’t be long before I jump up from the dinner table and rush upstairs to the bookshelf to pull down one book or several and press them into the hands of a guest, never to be seen or read again.
The Fish Car is about Traver’s fish car "Buckshot." Buckshot’s purpose in life was to transport Traver from river to lake to pond to creek. Along the way it picked up some contents and smells of its own.
This is an obituary to my fish car. It had no name. It was just the Fishing Car, or on some days the Fish Mobile. I spied it the other day in a bier of milkweeds behind Mike Medeiros’ garage, red paint dull, the tail of the old-style striped bass decal curling off from the right rear window.
My fish car was a red 1986 Volkswagen Fox. I was young and poor when I bought it, reduced to driving an old Dodge Dart I sort of inherited from my brother-in-law. According to the mildewed receipts in the glove box the Dart was first owned by a nun in Brooklyn. It had a bullet hole in the passenger’s door and the word "DIE" scrawled Charles Manson-style under the driver’s side window. My only contribution to it was the addition of a bumper sticker which I rescued from an crying lady in a parking lot who was peeling it off of her mini-van’s bumper because some wise-ass kids had defaced the original sentiment of "I (Heart Symbol) My Dog" by covering the heart with a sticker of a wood screw.
Since car buying stories are about as interesting as listening to the elderly talk about their medications, I’ll spare you the details. The car was new. I was so poor I didn’t buy a radio and never, in the 18 years I drove it, did I hear a note of music inside its doors.
For the first two years the car was respectable. It did a great job of getting me to and from my job in the Prudential Center. Then I became a telecommuter -- writing in my bathrobe, not bathing, shaving or driving for days at a time -- and the car became unneeded to the point where I considered selling it. My brother was in the service and needed some wheels to drive to his job as a demolitions instructor at Cape Edwards, so I loaned the car to him for a summer in exchange for the chance to blow up an abandoned shipping trailer on the demolition range at Otis. That led to the car getting a very cool set of cryptic Department of Defense stickers on the windshield.
Once a single sticker hits a car, it’s like CEOs buying land on Nantucket before they get sent to jail. They don’t stop until every square inch is covered.
The Fox officially became The Fishing Car after a trip to Red Top, that venerable temple of Cape Cod Canal fishermen in Buzzard’s Bay. There I found a matching set of striped bass decals, the kind I had seen on the big beach buggies stuck in traffic on Route 6 as a kid, the big battlewagons with quivers of 12-foot surfcasting rods and green Penn Z-spinning reels. They were very salty looking, so I bought a matching set of adhesive stripers and applied them to the rear passenger windows. From then on, if a bait and tackle shop had a free bumper sticker, it went on the Fishing Car. I always wished I hadn’t lost the "I Screw My Dog" sticker.
I once, and only once, left a pail of eels in the trunk of my wife’s car, but was never forgiven; indeed was always reminded of the transgression whenever the temperature rose and she was in a menstruous mood (she now believes eels have been left in all cars after I use them), and so I was forced to use the Fox as my fishing car forever more.
Once the Fox became the fishing car, it became the Fishing Car. The sun visors were used as pin cushions for old flies and rusty poppers, bucktails drooping down and waving in the wind. The trunk was wired with a special bright light for rigging lines and tying knots in dark parking lots. On the roof was an old luggage rack and a homemade rod holder made out of PVC and spring clips covered with surgical tubing to protect the rods from scratches. The floor of back seat was a mound of fast food wrappers, an inch of sand, and waders in vary degrees of leakage. The back seat held a copy of that year’s Eldridge’s Tide Tables, a Cape Cod road atlas, a map of Canal fishing spots, a National Seashore parking permit, several empty bottles of Jolt cola consumed in narcoleptic desperation to get home to sleep in bed and not behind the wheel, wire leaders, a five-gallon plastic bucket drilled around the rim to hold bait rigs and plugs, an orange Grunden foul-weather top, wader belt, flip flops, and a child’s plastic snow saucer in case I needed to drag a huge fish back along the sand.
The smell was prodigious. It wasn’t exactly an eye-watering, ha-ha-someone-put-quahogs-in-the-hub-caps sort of reek. It was more low-tidesque and man-funk mixed with wader rot, mixed with a lost box of squid. I liked that smell. It reminded me of something dim, distant, and good like the way the smell of Coppertone suntan lotion and the sound of the Thompson Clam Bar jingle reminds me of being a kid in the backseat of a car when the Cape was covered with miles and miles of scrub pine and oak and not subdivisions with stupid names like Camelot, Canterbury and Landsdowne.
My car was rarely borrowed twice by the same person. Women were allergic to it. Guys liked it.
During an artistic phase I smeared down the dash with a bottle of left-over carpenter’s glue and spread a few handfuls of sand from Ballston Beach over the glue to cover up the cracked vinyl and impress my friends who were in awe of the car’s backwards slide into seaside squalor. I glued down a miniature horseshoe crab shell, a piece of driftwood, some pretty seaweed, and a few clam shells. Soon I had a nice little Cape Cod Diorama that was fun to look at until the windshield fogged up on cool mornings during the fall run and the defroster fan threw off a Moroccan sirocco that sandblasted my face. I regretted gluing a beach scene onto the dashboard of my car.
The car achieved some degree of fame when National Geographic correspondent and noted fishing author Fen Montaigne wrote about it in 1995 in his account of the First Reel-Time Death March. Poor Fen came to the Cape from Manhattan looking for a story about the Internet and Fly Fishing. Instead he got a ride in my Fish Car.
"Stretched out in the front seat of Churbuck's battered Volkswagen Fox, I drifted off to the sound of Dave snoring like a train wreck. The next thing I knew, Churbuck was muttering, "Hey, it's 4:15," and we were rousing ourselves for the dawn fishing patrol. We breakfasted heartily --
Coke, strawberry Twizzlers, extra crunchy Reese's peanut butter cups, Oreos, Cheeze-Its and jalapeno-laced Monterey Jack cheese cut with a rusty fish filet knife. Well fortifed, we donned our waders and hit the beach once again."
I have never heard myself snore, therefore I must not. And I like regular Reese’s, not the crunchy nonsense. And Montaigne farts if you want to know the truth. Two grown men sleeping in the confines of a Volkswagen Fox is not the cozy scene you imagine it to be, though after a long night striding the sands of the wild windblown Atlantic coast of the Outer Cape, I often collapsed back into the silent, cocoon of the Fox and sighed, happy to be back inside its protected shell, rocked by the gusts of the onshore breeze.
The Fox was not a manly fishing vehicle. It looked pretty lame in the company of the big pickup trucks, International Travel-Alls, and other big capable SUVs that frequented the parking lots of Cape Cod’s fishing holes. It wouldn’t have made it five feet on a beach trail and thus can safely lay claim to having never killed a piping plover.
Eventually it died at the hands of another driver who, after borrowing it -- along with a book -- claimed its brakes failed, sending it slowly into the Cotuit Kettleer’s schedule board at the corner of Main and School streets in the center of the village. The frame was bent, probably weakened by two decades of salt and the time the tide at Scorton Creek covered the axles. There was no fixing it. Blue Book value be damned, I was willing to drop some serious money to get it back on the road but there was no hope. The mechanics never could understand why I would bother.
They never understood the miniature beach glued on the dashboard either.
In other business: No one guessed the author of the Toasted Chickenfish recipe mentioned in the title of last week's FishWire. The late Mike Royko, one of the greatest newspaper columnists, got into a lot of hot water for ridiculing the food editor of his newspaper for printing in her column a reader's prank request for a recipe for "toasted chickenfish." The tip-off that the letter was a prank? It was signed: "Olga F***yercelf" which remains, to this day, my favorite party name-tag name.
Here's the deal in Fishville. They're back. Doldrums are officially over according to the expert: Me. I even went fishing, with the legendary Peter Jenkins of The Saltwater Edge, and we caught squat. But we looked good doing it. Bait ought to start doing its thing on this moon, so time spent on the water from now until the gales of November will be time well spent.