How to attach screws to fiberglass hatch?

[josko]

I'm trying to bolt a fly stretcher underneath a hatch on my boat, and really don't want to drill through the hatch. Does anyone know of a product I can perhaps epoxy (or otherwise attach) to one side of a fiberglass hatch, and whyich will take a screw. I thiught about gluing nuts and bolt standoffs, but I'd bet there's a product out there explicitly for this. Anyone?

[Slamdance]

3M 5200 should work.

[Adam-Albino]

Try 5200. Should hold it quite well... Of course its a pain to remove again, but it can be done.
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[josko]

Attach WHAT to the hatch with 5200? The stretcher itself or some kind of a bolt base? The latter is preferable since it would allow removal of the stretcher itself

[Adam-Albino]

you could probably try either, but since 5200 stays plyable, I'd think direct to the stretcher would be better.

Whats wrong with "bolting" through the hatch anyway?
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[marvin]

<P><FONT color=blue face="Times New Roman,Times" size=2>Josko,</FONT></P>
<P><FONT color=blue face="Times New Roman,Times" size=2>If you want to avoid wood for your stretcher frame, how about that Starboard stuff.&nbsp; Appears to be relatively indestructable.&nbsp; I would guess that something like a pair of 1" long polyurethaned pieces of 1 X 2 or 1 X 3 oak&nbsp; would akso work pretty well, and last for a good while- or a pair of short teak handrail sections .</FONT></P>
<P><FONT color=#0000ff face="Times New Roman" size=2>Marvin</FONT></P>
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[JHorton]

<P><FONT color=black face=Verdana,Geneva size=3>How 'bout good 'ole Marine Tex?</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=Verdana size=3>Shape it into blocks, let it harden, then tap it.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=Verdana size=3>If you had to remove it, it would take a grinding wheel to do it.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=Verdana size=3>My worry would be that the continuous pounding would put pretty heavy strain on the screw threads.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=Verdana size=3>I'd test it on something else first, what ever you choose.</FONT></P>
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<P><FONT size=3>J.Horton</FONT></P>
<P><A href="http://people.ne.mediaone.net/aromafusion/masssalt.htm"><FONT size=3>Mass Salt</FONT></A></P>

[mcollins]

I don't drill into my hull if I can avoid it, typically its 5200 on a hardwood (oak) nailer/screw base. My gas tank and battery are attached that way.

[Rocky]

Depending on how permanent your want the installation to be and how much clearance is available....Use blocks of starboard an inch or more in thickness, one for each corner of the stretcher. Countersink holes for the nuts (as someone once said, "Screws have no place on a boat")Set the nuts in 5200 being careful not to get any on the threads. Set the blocks in place w/5200 and bolt the stretcher to the blocks. If the bolts loosen up try some Lock-tight or teflon tape. Now, if there is enough clearance, you can you can construct this to accommodate a Plano type tray between the stretcher and the underside of the hatch. The tray would slide in and out and be held in place by a latch or strategically placed velcro strips.

[gregg4]

Why do you need a stretcher in the northeast? I am thinking for steel leaders for blufish. We use them in florida for tarpon, but before you make a whole or use cement that will never be the same, why not cary on and off?