Fishing Alaska

[cabinetman]

Hi all. New to your forum but browsed from time to time.

I'm just curious if any of you have ever fished Alaska in September? I'm heading there on the 5th of Sept. for a full week. I'm staying at Bristol Bay Lodge and we'll be flying to outcamps from there.

I think I've got a good handle on my equipment and will be packing 7 and 8wt fly gear. I'll also be using sinking tips on my floating line.

Anyone have any major suggestions, other than not get eaten by the bears?

Rome

[bones]

Wish I'da read this earlier to give you some encouragement and a few pointers.

I envy you, you are in Ak and I'm down here boiling in Texas!

As I write this you are having the time of your life catching big fish in the finest Angler's paradise on this planet.

Hope you are into the silvers..........awesome on an 8wt. and I'd try it on a 7.

Write us a trip wrap-up when you get home, and send some pics.

[cabinetman]

I apprecaite your effort to reply.

Nothing could have prepared me for what we experienced in Alaska, however. It was wonderful.

For a full 7 days, we were up at 0600, at the dock and in a boat or airplane for 0730 and never back to the lodge until 1700. We spend a full 9 hours a day in our waders. To boot, the weather was literally perfect. It didn't rain once, there were no bugs, and it stayed light until almost 2200. The temps were in the high 50s/low 60s during the day and dropped to mid 30s at night. Frost on everthing but it warmed up fast.

We also spent two nights at out-camps flying out to the Togiak River and middle fork of the Good News River and saw a ton of wildlife including a few bears.....big ones, too. Caribou came though our camp one evening!

We fished for Silvers (Coho) Salmon, Dolly Vardon, Trophy Rainbows, Arctic Char, and Grayling with both 5 wt and 7 wt rigs. The average Salmon was 34" long and weighted a ton.

We flew about a dozen times while we were there and saw scenery that took your breath away. At one point, we were over 350 miles from the nearest road and about 400 miles from the Russian border. This was a remote fishing experience to say the least.

Finally, we came home with 100 pounds of salmon, all cleaned, bagged, and frozen and it made it home perfectly.

All in all it was a trip of a lifetime AND my wife went with me and caught fish for fish with me. That was fun.

It was expensive but worth every penny and I'd got back there in a heartbeat. I wish it wasn't so far to fly to, however. That too a lot out of both of us.

I'll post some photos when get them back in a day or so.

Rome

[bones]

You are right, nothing could have been said to prepare you for that trip. I've been up there several times and each time was a new adventure,..........if I had detailed vividly what you would experience you would not have believed me until your arrival. Where did you go? How much? I have always wanted to return x AK to the far wilderness and have half-heartedly researched some areas but am a little apprehensive about what I actually would get for my money. My last trip to AK I thought my wife and I were far away on a pristine lake (after a half hour float plane trip) when a bunch of idiots on their bicycles cruised right past us! So much for solitude. Also, the famed Kenai River was so congested with boats I may as well have stayed home here in the Texas hill country and floated down the Guadalupe River in an inner tube with the usual thousands of drunkards.

Send us some pics.

[bones]

P.S. What kinda numbers of salmon did you box? Silvers on a 7wt on a river,...............pretty gutsy!!

[cabinetman]

Bones,

I would have replied sooner but the web was extremely slow last night.

First of all, we stayed at Bristol Bay Lodge. Here's a link.

http://www.bristolbaylodge.com/

It has the reputation of being one of the finest in Alaska and lived up to that reputation. Check out the 'example' schedule the have for the 8 days. That's precisely what we followed.

It's expensive but they had a "special" that some of their past guests were able to take advantage of so we ended up spending about 1/2 of the listed price. The question is was it worth it? I will honestly say that it was. You only had to worry about yourself and fishing. Every other detail: food, flying, boats, special flys for certain areas, guides, schedules, etc., etc. were taken care of automatically and the price was all inclusive. Need a bottle of wine for the shore lunch? No problem. Just a mention of something and it was done. That's why this lodge has such a tremendous reputation.

They also have exclusive fishing rights to areas no other lodge has on reservation property. That ensures complete and utter privacy. There is only one spot we saw another boat and that was on a stream off one of the big lakes near the lodge. It is visited by one other lodge but even at that, we rarely saw others.

We were in South Western Alaska, too. We were further North in the outcamps. There, we were the only humans for a hundred miles around.

As for the fishing, it could not be better......or more challenging. Fishing Alaska is not shooting fish in a barrel. These are really wild fish and you've got to approach thing properly to be successful. And, yes, we came home with a lot of Coho (Silver) Salmon.......100 pounds actually! All cleaned, shrink-wrapped, and frozen. No problem getting it home as we had it in cold storage at our layover in Anchorage.

I'll post a couple more photos when I have a few minutes but here's one that I just love. My wife had never fished with flys until that week. In two days, she was asking the guides if we could stay on the river a little longer! Here's one of her first successful catches. The Silvers had just started to turn.

http://www.hunt101.com/img/059807.jpg

That was the attitude she had all week long. We also caught Dolly Vardon, Arctic Char, trophy size Rainbow, Leopard Rainbow (rare), and Grayling (on dry flies...cool). We only took Salmon home. The trout were the hardest to catch but they were all between 19 and 24". One of the other women at the lodge (There were 24 guests in total) caught a 29" Rainbow! Imagine that on a 5 wt!

Also, I did break an Orvis Trident 4-piece rod right near the butt. It's one its way back under warrantee.

I'll post a couple more photos as soon as I pare through them all. I'll include some landscape photos. It was breathtaking no matter where you looked!


Rome

[gutcutter]

i have gone to the same lodge every year for the past 7 (except '01 because we were scheduled to arrive on sept 13th) and will probably do so until i am physically unable to get out of a supercub.
bones, with a little work and a lotta phone calls, you can get a great deal. the best way to go in my opinion is just like cabinetman did...
most top lodges have a reserved week for a group that repeats each year and the price is more reasonable.
but remember - the cheap lodges don't treat you the way cabinetman was treated.
by the way, most silvers of about 15 pounds can be fought in big water (most alaskan rivers) with a saltwater 6 wt (mine is a winston xtr) and a good reel (i use a tibor everglades). the bright silver fish can be caught on top with deer hair or foam "wog" flies and a 6 casts them beautifully! i also had a 12'6" sage single handed 6 wt with a reddington reel that beat the crap out of the silvers in no time! i would say, though that a 7 or 8 is a bit more 'standard' up there and can land the fish faster (so you can fight more each day)

[bones]

My attempts at organizing such a trip have been futile; few of my friends will commit. Have my eye on a hunting/fishing combo trip about half-way down the Alaskan penninsula. A friend of mine popped a trophy moose there last year, and while standing at the dock awaiting the floatplane to pick him up for the trip back home he netted 29 big silvers,.........with only 31 casts!!!!!!!

It's not one of those big fancy joints with all the amenities of a Hollywood cat-house, but it is comfortable. I'm planning a trip when the ptarmigan season is open............boy! are those birds dumb......easy shooting. I used to hunt those on the North Slope with a .22 pistol !

Check it out. www.wildmanlodge.com

Silvers on a 6wt. ?! What a battle ! That did it, I'll be up in AK next year.....by myself if I have to.

[cabinetman]

Hi Guys. On the last day we were fishing, we were on the Middle Fork of the Good News River. We had quit fishing for salmon and were after a rare strain of trout called Leopard Trout. These guys were difficult to catch, being really spooky and wiley. We'd basically spot spawning Coho in fast water and sneak up as best we could. Then I laid down an egg pattern with a small spit shot to help it sink in the fast water, allowing the egg to drift through the salmon. I missed about five hits until I was able to feel them properly. These were short presentations for sure so there was lots of casting involved and it was really windy. So, when we finally hooked up, the guide and I were really happy. In about 4 hours, I only caught 6 fish but all were at least as big as this. And, using a 5wt with a tapered leader really let you know the fight was on. I only lost one as he got too far into the really swift current and started to spool me.
Rome

http://www.hunt101.com/img/060674.jpg

[bones]

Once you have been to nAlaska, you're hooked.
Bet'cha you are planning the next one already!

[cabinetman]

Bones, the airfare to Anchorage from Newark NJ via Alaska Airlines was a paltry $350, round trip. We ended up buying airfare from Hartford at $650 but that was at the last minute as we had to make quick plans. Had I a little more time, I'd taken a limo to Newark and saved 1/2.

So, airfare is so cheap that, yes, we're considering another trip up sometime soon. This time, however, we'll fish some and then enjoy driving the country side up to Fairbanks and the like. It does get under your skin more than any other beautiful state I've visited!

Rome

[bones]

The only good scenery is around the coast. We did a trip from Anchorage to Valdes to Fairbanks to Anchorage and were dissapointed. After you get ~150 miles inland the mountains disappear and the terrain is flat. If you are looking for scenery, make the drive from Anchorage to Valdez...........breath-taking!!!beyond description!!!! Maybe then ferry over to Kenai Peninsula, or double back towards Fairbanks.........but way before you get to Fairbanks there is a cross-country dirt road that will get you to Denali...wish we had taken it. Anchorage to Denali Park is nice, but north of Denali it is flat and blah. Anchorage to Kenai Peninsula is also an exceptionally beautiful drive.

Don't forget your fishin' rods. Good Halibut fishin out of Valdez......if you are into standing on the deck of a boat and dropping meat overboard and accidentally hitting a Halibut in the head with it...pretty boring..........lot cheaper to buy 50# halibut meat and send it home.

[cabinetman]

Bones, I agree with you. The mountains South of Anchorage are awe-inspriring. Interestingly enough Denali is a place I'll probably not go to. We had friends go there a month ago and they said that the cruise lines have busses lined up to get into that park and it's like Yellowstone...really conjested. People and cars everywhere.

Thanks for the suggestions. I know that my wife will be banging the drum for visit back there within the next year or two.

Tightlines!

R

[bones]

We drove ~4-5 miles into the park and noted the scenery is identicle to that out of the park, waste of time. Couldn't see Mount What-ever-it-is due to the clouds.........so what.......I flew over Mount What-ever-it-is in a Lear jet several times to-and-from the North Slope, speaking of breathtaking scenery. Turned around and headed elsewhere. Denali Park is very low on the list of visits........not even on my "must see" list

[JeffStrohm]

I imagine that your going for Silvers and if that's the case, I would suggest at least a 9wt. I would also bring a 4wt for the dolly varden and greyling fishing. Eventually you get bored of hauling in 10-15 lb salmon. I know that sounds hard to belive, but trust me, after 1-2 days of catching the salmon, you'll want to catch something different.

Alaska was the most incredible fishing trip I've ever experienced! It's like fishing in a salmon hatchery. Every fish is perfect and every cast produces a fresh silver.

Bring lighter tackle for other types of fish, you won't be sorry.

Also bring plenty of mosquito repelent and rain gear.

Enjoy!!!

[akfish]

Great to hear that many of you have good experiences in AK. There are two types of good fishing that you can enjoy up here: one expensive and the other inexpensive. Many of you pay big $$$ for pleasure, AK people thank you for your kindness.

--127-3-

But happyness can come with less $. The trick is to get away from Anchorage and Kenai. Valdez is not bad for silver in late August, early September, and mid September. To beat the crowd in Valdez is to avoid Saturday and Sunday when interior people, mainly Fairbanks residents, try to catch their winter inventories. If you are willing to wake up early, like 5 or 6 a.m., the whole shore line is pretty much yours for at least 2 hours. In fact, this is the best time for silver fishing. The difficulty is that it is too dark to sight fishing them. Fishing in saltwater for silvers is fun. I use a 6 weight. The typical leech pattern will work, but not great. Saltwater bait flies sometimes work better.

For king salmon fishing, try Klutina and Gulkana rivers. Klutina is my favor and I walk for 40 min to the month of the river. I frequently have the whole 1/2 mile river bank to be mine. Sometimes, I share it with eagles and wolves. Again, you want to do it early because interior can be hot (above 70 F) after 10 a.m. Those Copper river kings are excellent (in fact the best) to eat. Their oil contents are the highest. Their livers are so amazing that one of my European fishing friends will seal them and resell them in his countries for $$$$$.

[bones]

You just HAD to say the AK word, didn't you! Makes me itch to get back up there.

Knowing the ropes makes for an easier and less expensive trip, for sure. I will check out your fishin' holes next trip up there.

Silvers on a 6wt! Now that's guts!! Will give it a try.

Click this and cruise through the site: www.wildmanlodge.com
A friend of mine was up there a coupla years ago for a moose hunt. While awaiting the plane to take him back to Anchorage someone handed him a rod-n-reel and in 30 casts hooked-up and landed 29 silver salmon. It's definitely on my list of to do's before I leave this planet. Betcha ptarmagin shooting with a 20guage would be awesome.

[Bob Parsons]

I visited Denali park back in the 70's and it was not overcrowded then. Problem I had was that there were not many bodies of water that did not have glacial silt in them making most of them unsuitable for fishing. I did find on spot a short walk from the road where I could take some of the kids I had on the trip but after an hour a couple rangers showed up. They explained there was a young bear being a bit aggressive with people and we had to leave. We had cloudless skies and the views were great.

[Iwan]

Was down on the Kenai Peninsula this summer. Everyone apart from my buddy and I were salmon fishing. Had the small creeks to ourselves and fly fished for big 'bows and dollies for 10 days straight. Never saw a single other person when fishing --127-3-

Had an awesome time and think about the 27 inch 'bow that I caught on our last day there a lot........ --125-3

Iwan.

[bones]

I guess I shouldn't short-change Denali so much. But, having spent the previous 10 days doing the wife tour stuff............... museums, shopping, church, ad nauseum, (and had not wet a single hook the whole time!), I was chomping at the bit to get into the next leg of the tour which was King Salmon in western AK, fly fishin' paradise! Boy! Fighting a 15 pound silver with an 8wt on a fast moving river is about as awesome as it can get...........complete with hungry bears watching! .44Mag tucked into belt is mandatory for the next trip up there............the bears won't bother you, as a rule, but I've seen pictures of the remains of some unfortunate souls who accidentally stumbled upon the wrong hungry and grumpy bear.

Is it cold up your way? I am looking forward to another trip to the Cape next summer. You guys have your own paradise up there.

[bones]

[QUOTE=Iwan]Was down on the Kenai Peninsula this summer. Everyone apart from my buddy and I were salmon fishing. Had the small creeks to ourselves and fly fished for big 'bows and dollies for 10 days straight. Never saw a single other person when fishing --127-3-

I never thought to do the creeks while I was on Kenai Peninsula, big mistake. I did fish the river, though, had the premier guide, all the best equipment, the only problem was it was right between the 2 King Salmon runs and there were too few fish to be successful. I did do the Russian River, though, a tributary of the Kenai, standing shoulder to shoulder with 30thousand other goobers snatching salmon out of a 20mph river current with an 8wt. Awesome.

When ya goin' back?

[cabinetman]

Wow......I'm surprised that this thread still has life!

I'll tell you a quick story. I live in Connecticut, right on the Massachusetts border. Sometimes I travel to Mass to see the Springfield Armory Museum which is a National Park like Yellowstone or Acadia. I'm also a Rotarian in Rotary International. As it turns out so is the director of the Springfield Armory museum. Doug and I got to talking and we've become fast friends. How does this relate to this thread? Well Doug was the Superintendant of Denali National Park for 9 years. He was there before satellites and vcrs. He's been to my home and regaled us with stories of how the residents occupied their "dark time" during the long Winter there. There was a stong commuity structure and lots of interaction between the residents. Then he talks about how things changed virtually overnight when satellite dishes and VCRs became popular. The community literally fell apart in one year.

He's getting ready to retire, now, and still holds his time at Denali as a special time in his life. I can only imagine how hard it was for people to survive those many months of cold and dark! Alaska is a special place on the planet and our 9 days in September, out in the Tundra 400 miles from the nearest road next to the Berring Sea were special times for my novice fisherman wife and myself. We'll never forget it and we'll always want to go back sooner than later.

Rome

[Iwan]

When ya goin' back?

Planning to go for three weeks in September next year split between Kenai (rainbow/dollies) and Talkeetna (grayling).

BTW Bones........do you know the best way to make a bear real ****ed ?

Shoot them with a .44 magnum :brow

Save the magnum to shoot your buddy in the leg........then you can out run him........

[bones]

Save the magnum to shoot your buddy in the leg........then you can out run him........[/QUOTE]



Never thought of that...............excellent idea.............instead of your buddy,though, pop your guide.........guide costs lotsa money,......he takes you fishin'.........ya have a great day......graze guide in leg with meat-gun..........run like hell......and cut him a check if he makes it back to camp.

Brilliant. My next Alaska trip keeps getting cheaper and cheaper.

By the way,Talkeetna is a pretty nifty litttle village, ain't it? Wife and I pulled into Talkeetna a few years ago and I immediately locked car keys in the rental Explorer......wait-a-minute.....it musta been wife that did it,,,,,do I look that stoopid? Obviously, the remedy was to bash a window out with a large rock.......but...wife has better sense than I and talked me out of it. Went into the bar at the hotel to inquire what in the world I could do about this cruddy situation. The bartender directed me to this grizzly-bear looking dude seated at the end of the bar. I described my dilemna to the gentleman who then took a long sip out of his beer and withdrew a Slim-Jim from his pant-leg as if it were EXCALIBER. He openned the door of the Explorer with no problem. I gave him 20 bucks......hoping he wouldn't come back later to steal the car. ..............

Was the old Sharps Cavalry rifle still hanging on the wall there?.......Looked brand new didn't it?

bones

[akfish]

6wt is for Valdez bay or slowing moving water, like the deep section of the month of Montana creek. If the water is quick, you bet I will use my 8wt, especially when chum salmon are around.

Glacier river is fishable, sometimes no worse than clear water. The only downside is that you cannot do sight fishing. For example, Talkeetna is beautiful (its roadhouse is the best; $20 for a bunk bed). 3-minute walk across railroad bridge leads you to Susitna river where the water is completely yellow or brown. The underwater visibility is like 1-2 inches. I fly fishing there a couple times. Chum and silver takes the fly without any hesitation whenever they see one. The tourists always ask me how that could be possible when I brought 2 silvers back. My answer is always that salmon see better than people. --125-3 By the way, when the water is unclear, use balck color pattern.