DIY Mexico

[TimOBrien]

I returned from a two week trip last week. I fished up and down the coast of the Yucatan and found several places to fish without a guide. I had been reading old post on this forum and really never got anything solid. It is true that there are bones around the boca paila bridge. In fact you can pull your car over on the south side of the bridge and wade back for miles. Local guides told me that the fish are very skiddish, but I had no problem. Out of all places I have been Xcalak is by far the best fishing on a budget I have ever found. I had read Garsides story about how they didnt see much there, and the fishing was slow. But if you spend a little time the locals will show you the three lagoons all right behind the town. The bridge lagoon is the easiest to find because you can see the lagoon as you pass over the bridge. I waded it every day and caught 20lb tarpon and big snook. THere are two other inland lagoons that are land locked and keep monster tarpon and snook year round. You can rent kayaks in town for $15 a day. Between Xcalak and Mahjual on the old beach road is all flats that are between the reef and beach. Here you can see tails from your car as you drive down the road. AN Italian man caught a nice permit right out front of Costa de Cocos. There are severl roads that you can drive down that will dead end into Chetumal bay. I would just unload my kayak and paddle around. Off the pier in Xcalak there is an old gear box from a ferry used long time ago. The structure is 50ft south of the pier in only 2ft of water. I would cast around that in the afternoons and catch 10-15lb tarpon. There are no dangers in this town. Everyone is extremely kind. Even the military guys would ask me to bring them back a snook if I had the opportunity. I did charter a guide for about $220 for 8 hours. Chetumal bay surpasses Acsension bay. There are bigger bones. I saw several in the 10-12lbs range on a daily basis. Schools of permit with their backs out of water, and 20 lbs snook cruising across white sandy bottoms. The water is clearer and has very little bottom structure. I was able to spot fish at far distances because I wasnt confusing fish with grass or rocks. Anyway check it out if interested in the DIY Mexico flyfishing.
I also stopped in for a couple of days at Casa Blanca. That is probably the world's best flyfishing lodge.

[Mark Dougherty]

Nice report. Did you travel direcly to Boca Pila or did you hit some coves while traveling south along the coast ? (I assume you landed in Cancun airport)
I have had some success casting at a few reosrts I have stayed at.

[StorminN]

Hi Tim,

Do you know of any way to get in touch with Victor the fishing guide, prior to heading down to Xcalak? I'll be there in Xcalak next month, but I'd like to talk to Victor (and yourself) about exactly what sort of gear to bring...

Thanks,
-Norm.

[Supafly]

Where is Xcalak in relation to Boca Paila? This sounds very interesting to me.

[StorminN]

Supafly,

Xcalak is near the end of the southernmost peninsula of Mexico on the Caribbean coast... right on the Belize border... so from Boca Paila, you'd drive north, back to Tulum, then turn left (south) on 307 and drive to Limones, then turn left towards the coast, then when you hit the coast at Majahual, turn right. From what I can gather, it's a little over five hours drive (in your own car) from Cancun.

[TimOBrien]

Sorry Im getting back to you guys so late. Xcalak is an easy 51/2 hour drive from Cancun. The highwway is excellent, not like the shoulderless roads I grew up on in the 80's. The resorts have built a great highway. Tulum is a great stopping point for lunch being about half way there. as you get to Limones you will see the sign for Majahual. You cant miss it. When I was a kid Majahual was the size of Xcalak now its becoming the next Cancun. as you reach Majahaul there will be a checkpoint and a sign heading south to Xcalak. Folow this and it will run you right into town. There are several places to stay there. Some palapas on the beach with a hammock to nice lodges. I recommend Costa de Cocos. Its a beautiful lodge with everything youll need, and great guides. They all types of activities to keep occupied. Check out their site at www.costadecocos.com. If your interested in DIY this is the place. I hadnt been down there since my grandfather first buitlt Paradise Lodge in the late 80's. It hadnt changed much except for Majahaul. Xcalak is the last of the classic flyfishing adventures. Get on it before it is occupied with resorts and tourists.

[juanito_1]

Tim,
What are the food options like in Xcalak ? I see Costa de Cocos provide breakfast but I assume there are a few restaurants available ?
Would you recommend making reservations or is it still sleepy enought there that it's not necessary ?
Also, where is the closest ATM to get cash or is there a bank that will exchange travellers cheques ? TIA.
John

[TimOBrien]

The food at Costas is great and provides a variety of entrees. There are 3 or 4 other little restaraunts in town that I do recommend eating at. They all serve lobster and snook. Its about $5 for each and it is fresh. If you decide to stay at costa I can handle your bookings. I deal with David Randall, the owner, with my booking company. If not there are a bunch of other places to stay and you wont need a reservation because it is their low season. Let me know.

[mctrout]

So you are a booking agent? sounds nice down there. You said you stopped by Casa Blanca, how was that? how did you get there and what was the fishing like? any particular guides you recommend and how are the rooms?
thanks

[TimOBrien]

Well I am finishing up my senior year of college here in Texas. I have been in the hunting & fishing industry my whole life. So to make a little bar money I book a couple trips. My word is solid because of my background so a lot of people will ask where to go to next, and I make a little commision off the deal. Casa Blanca was as always incredible. I was down training a new guide and got to fish all over. I hooked into several 80-100lbs tarpon in the tarpon lagoon and caught bones until my arm about gave out. Besides the fishing the lodge and staff run as smooth as ball bearings. ABout the guides, in the past we allowed the client to pick his guide, but now unless you have been before and are familiar with one then its picked at random. I would suggest Augustine, Pato, or Thomas. THese three guys are Lefty's, Chicos, Flip, and everyother big names first choice. They all speak good english and are good guys. Ive known them since I was 4 yrs old. If your interested there is a huge deal for the month of April. The high season which is now is $3999 for a week, but due to some complications they are offering it for $2499. Pretty good deal.

[juanito_1]

Tim,
I'm thinking of heading to Xcalak in mid June, would you consider this a good time ? I hate fishing in howling winds & I hear that in the summer things calm right down, is this correct ?
Also could you expand a bit on the Chetumal Bay access, how far to paddle to contact fish. I'll probably take my inflatable canoe with me so mobility won't be a problem.
You'd also mentioned driving north on the coast road to access flats & I see that road goes all the way to Mahahual, is it fishable all the way or only in selected spots ? How far north of Xcalak do you have to go to get to fish ?
Last but not least, how would you compare this area to Boca Paila ?
TIA
John
(PM me if you don't want to respond here)

[TimOBrien]

June will be a good month. Remember that when there is less wind there are more bugs. You can catch bones all up and down in front of all the little hotels. they run about 5 miles torwards mahajual. After you pass the last lodge it all pretty much the same, some spots shallower than others. there are inland lakes that are connected by tunnels to the carribean. There are many behind Xcalak and on the oppsoite side of the road from the beach. You just got to ask around. I pulled a kayak in to one and fished all afternoon for tarpon and snook. Anyway good luck down there.

[juanito_1]

Thanks Tim, I'll post a report when I get back.
John

[prof]

I've fished Xcalak and hired Victor as a guide. I consider him as a very good 'amigo'. He knows where to find fish but his flyfishing knowledge (casting, terminal tackle, etc.) is a little limited. So if you are an experienced flats flyfisher, he will do fine. His phone is CO 52 9838389809 and his email is caribereal@hotmail.com.

[jrinstmbt]

Tim - I checked out the website for Costa de Cocos, looked interesting, and forwarded to my wife. When I got home last night, she pulled out a folder containing articles on the area, FROM 10 YEARS AGO! Looks like destiny is at play here: we'll be in contact to plan a late summer/early spring trip!

[juanito_1]

I'm headed to Xcalak & will be there June 13th-19th, anyone else going to be there at that time ?

[StorminN]

Hi Juanito_1,

I'm not headed to Xcalak in June, but I was there in April and travelled the entire Costa Maya, from Xcalak to Punta Herrero... if you want the honest poop on the place, and recommendations on where to go (and where not to go) shoot me an email... (norm<at>loudamps<dot>com) I live on Sequim Bay, so I'm probably about 15 miles from you as the crow flies.

-N.

[juanito_1]

StorminN,
Did you get the e-mail I sent you the other day ?