View Full Version : Float tubing in big ponds
Plastics Galore
04-22-2005, 02:04 PM
About everyday this week I have been fishing "Farrer Pond" on my float tube with a great deal of success, catching some nice crappie, bass and pickeral. Here (http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.413857,-71.354699&spn=0.016243,0.012617&t=k&hl=en) are some cool satellite photos of the pond. The one thing that I did not realize, however, was just how long it takes, and how tiring it is to make your way across a pond of this size on a float tube. I was wondering if any other float-tube enthusiasts had any suggestions to go faster on a float tube, whether I need new fins or to adapt a new kicking stroke.
AdamFishes
04-22-2005, 02:57 PM
I don't know much about float tubing but I have been known to catch a few largies. Your should try concentrating on one half of that pond instead of trying to do the whole thing it looks like the west end would have the most productive spots. Like at the points and bowls etc. Thats just what I'd do:)
Anyone interested in buying a float tube. I inherited one and would part with in cheap. In perfect condition and will include the fins.
Plastics Galore
04-22-2005, 04:12 PM
why would you ever sell a float tube?! :eek: mine was probably the best 150 dollars I've ever spent!
muddlerdont
04-24-2005, 10:13 PM
i might be interested, could you tell me the make & type(round or u shaped)
also what your asking? thanks ed c.
I like the float tubes with the trolling motor mount....im lazy. Can you actually move around well with the fins? a 40 something pound thrust trolling moter on a float tube is just fun..I want to mount a 15 horse motor on a float tube...now thats fun... Im sorry im rambling...Got a good buzz on!
teflon_jones
04-25-2005, 10:54 AM
Plastics Galore,
I posted the same question not too long ago, and the answers I received basically said to limit myself to smaller areas. I've since gotten a bit adventurous and tried to see how far I could really get myself, and it was farther than I thought. I think I could cover a good bit of a 100 acre lake in a full day. There are three main things I've found so far:
1) use the wind as much as possible,
2) use an anchor, and
3) really pay attention to my kicking stroke
What I do when I start for the day is take myself out roughly to the middle of where I want to fish and see where the wind is going to take me. Oftentimes the wind shifts directions a good bit over a big body of water, so where it's blowing when you launch isn't necessarily going to be where it's blowing 15 or 30 minutes later. Once I've established the general direction, I paddle as far up into it as possible and then let myself drift downwind with minor corrections as necessary to keep myself lined up with where I want to be.
The anchor probably made the biggest difference. I have a 2-3 pound rock with some rope tied around it that I use as an anchor. It will hold me pretty still in all but the stiffest breezes, which is fine since I want to drift a little. I can force a drift in low winds by shortening the anchor line until it's pretty much vertical and just dragging the bottom a little. This does a couple of things. First of all, it slows my drift so I don't have to paddle to keep myself in one spot, which takes energy and could also spook fish. The second thing it does is keep me pointed downwind for easier casting. I loop the anchor rope through the D rings on the tube so it comes off the back of the tube. This causes the tube to turn so the back is facing into the wind. The natural behavior of my tube is to turn into the wind when I didn't have the anchor, which is a royal pain for casting! And if I want to float sideways to the wind to work a shore, I can just shift the point where the anchor hangs from to point myself that direction without having to do any paddling to keep myself in position. If where you're fishing isn't weedy, I'd recommed a bigger rock though. I fish a very weedy lake so a 2-3 pd rock combined with the heavy weeds is plenty of anchor!
As for paddling, I've noticed that I definitely can move a lot faster if I concentrate on pushing myself instead of kicking down. When I first started, I tended to kick my feet so a lot of the force was pointed down instead of in front of me, so I was wasting energy.
Good luck!!!
ChuckD
05-02-2005, 12:34 PM
that my float tubing equipment is not the greatest and am considering upgrading. I have a caddis full tube with heavy fins that do not fit around my wading boots. I am thinking that one thing that might help would be to wear an old pair of sneakers over my stocking foot waders instead of wading boots. My boots are on the heavier side and after all there is no wading involved, so why not lower the weight on my feet to make the paddling easier? (#$119)
I still wonder if there is a better pair of fins out there - anyone have a recommendation? Also am wondering what budget-conscious people recommend for a float tube upgrade(I'm not dropping hundreds of bucks on a pontoon boat-though if I had the dough that's what I'd get).
Thanks for the advice on technique T.J.,
-Chuck
teflon_jones
05-03-2005, 07:45 PM
ChuckD,
I have the Caddis fins and they do a very good job. I have size 15 feet and the fins fit over them fine. I don't think the weight of the boots makes a huge difference though since they're in the water, but I've never tried using anything else, so what do I know! ;)
I've seen some expensive fins on eBay for about $100 and they look like they'd do a better job, but I don't have $100 to spend on fins. And who knows if they'd really do a better job or if they only look like they would!
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