$^%^&&$!! Kill Switch...

[Pauper Piscator]

#1 I hate this thing.

#2 Mine is a little balky and likes to kill the engine after a moderate to hard pound. IE usually on plane with predictably unpleasant results.

Futzing with it "cures" the problem but it is becoming more a safety issue than if there were NO KS.

The back of the switch itself is BURIED under the rest of my instrumentation harness but it appears (VERY hard to see) to simply have just 2 leads (hot in and hot out).

Anybody have any experience with just removing the KS and crimping the two wires together carefully stuffing back in and covering the opening in the dash?

Could it be that simple?

Thanks.

[DaleH]

Mine is a little balky and likes to kill the engine after a moderate to hard pound. Futzing with it "cures" the problem but it is becoming more a safety issue than if there were NO KS.

...appears (VERY hard to see) to simply have just 2 leads (hot in and hot out).FWIW every kill switch I've ever worked on were just ground leads, not hot leads ... as all the kill switch does is ground out the ignition. This is what your key switch does when you shut it off.

Anybody have any experience with just removing the KS and crimping the two wires together carefully stuffing back in and covering the opening in the dash?Could you do it? Sure ...
Would I advise you to do it? No ... but caveat emptor ...

On SAT while on the water, I fixed a boat which was having an errant no oil alarm, yet it was running fine and was drawing oil. Turns out it was the key switch. This boat sits all week on a mooring exposed to the elements and rain gets into the ignition and over time ... some leads get corroded and begin to short out. I've seen this a lot.

Recommendations:
Have you tried cleaning it? Remove and flush out with WD40 then force some Break-Free CLP in there, work/cycle the switch a few times (motor off), then force dielectric grease in there. Replacement kill switches are only $11 @ Wal*Mart (Seabrook) ... this should be a simply replacement "if" this is a separate module on your dash.

My rant ... (Not towards you Pat ...) ;)
All too often I find 99.9% of electrical items on helms that are non-functioning or intermittant, are such due to lack of attention and lubrication. A little annual maintenance goes a long way to help preserve any system's integrity in this marine environment.

On CCs or other boats with helms exposed to the weather, even a simple drop cover made of sunbrella or similar material will greatly prolong the life of stuff installed up there.

[Pauper Piscator]

I have been able to liberally douse the back side of the switch with CRC. This helps. Also barely able to manipulate (tighten) the spade connects on the switch itself without disassembling. Ditto the ignition gets a shot of CRC from time to time.

Helm and wiring etc are under a T-top and full canvas.

So last question, taking into aco**** I have yet to fall out of my boat - ever - ever - ever - despite the best efforts on my part at the hight of my recklessness and youthful indiscretion... :brow

Pretty much 2 ground leads into KS is it yah?

[DaleH]

So last question, taking into aco**** I have yet to fall out of my boat - ever - ever - ever - despite the best efforts on my part at the hight of my recklessness and youthful indiscretion... :brow ... pretty much 2 ground leads into KS is it yah?
Yes.

... at your own risk ...

[RogerStg]

#1 I hate this thing.

Anybody have any experience with just removing the KS and crimping the two wires together carefully stuffing back in and covering the opening in the dash?


I'm pretty sure that would ensure your boat would never start. I think you need to leave them disconnected. At least that's how mine works.

[Pauper Piscator]

that kinda throws off my plan.

So if you theory is correct... IF I just pulled a wire OFF the back of the KS - would bypass KS?

Hmmm....interesting but I am skeptical. Seems to me the KS provides the elect connection between those two leads?

C'mon electrician heads. Need info.

Volvo Penta IO if that helps. (Before you IO bashers get too excited, VP IO power kicks @$$!) :)

[DaleH]

These switches are normally closed or open ... 2 seconds with a DMM will tell you. I'm trying to visualize in my head the reasoning for using a default on or off switch ... but my head's hurtin' too hard ... and I can envision scenarios for each.

I still opine that replacement is the best option.

[lemaymiami]

I have to go with Reel Rascal on this one. If your kill switch is acting up replace it and square it away. Then pray that you never need it... I'm particularly thinking of that once in a lifetime (hopefully) midnight run into a bad inlet with high winds and opposing tide...

what really keeps me awake at night are all the bad things I haven't thought of....

[iluvgear]

Pull the kill switch up and wrap a zip tie in the gap where the little forked saftey thingy goes. This will eliminate the kill switch feature and CANNOT be quickly removed without a cutter.

If you do this modification realize what you are doing. If you do this and cannot handle boating without a kill switch seriously reconsider.

DO NOT blame anyone else for YOUR actions! You have been warned.

[maineguideman]

I'd say RR is right If somthing isnt working replace it Ive done the bypass thing in a pinch, but it will come back to bite you in the ass. It seems all the R&M I do except for plugs and oil changes is electricle and its always lights and it always a ground problem. RR is right on the second point of keeping the cheap ass switches the Boat MFG use, dry in the first place and a little PM with wd - 40 goes a long way. Im of the mindset that I dont like to jury rig things becuse breaking down for a cheap replacement and a little work doesnt make any sense. Also I like to keep the boat as factory fresh as possible.
Good luck

[moxie]

Dale, I have seen laynard saftey switches wired both ways. Some just
ground the magneto, shorting the coil, and some interupt ignition, hot.
My 1988 B/W Montauk is wired hot, and in my opinion is the correct way.
In electrical design, saftey devices are wired "fail-safe" meaning
if device fails or wire fails system goes into saftey fault. If the saftey
switch is wired normally open and a wire falls off, or is loose the saftey
will not stop the motor.
MOXIE

[RogerStg]

Dale, I have seen laynard saftey switches wired both ways. Some just
ground the magneto, shorting the coil, and some interupt ignition, hot.
My 1988 B/W Montauk is wired hot, and in my opinion is the correct way.
In electrical design, saftey devices are wired "fail-safe" meaning
if device fails or wire fails system goes into saftey fault. If the saftey
switch is wired normally open and a wire falls off, or is loose the saftey
will not stop the motor.
MOXIE

Except that wire or connection failure while fishing around rocks or navigating a dangerous inlet could be deadly. OTOH, the reverse wiring simply needs to be checked/tested from time to time to ensure that will operate properly when needed. We already do that with bilge pumps, fire extinguishers, oil level, etc.

[Pauper Piscator]

For the record, has not been acting up recently. A little CR-2 and elec tape.

Volvo guy says crimp or bullet connet leads to bypass. Shhhhh. Was not supposed to tell you that. Now I have to kill you all.

Seriously, I can pretty much offer the deepest assurance the kill switch "safety" feature on my dash has never been a factor in my boating safety. I am warned.

PS. Looked at some replacement KS assemblies at Wally. What a POS.

Still considering my plan before I start pulling apart the dash.

PS. Hammered the schoolies and blues to 7# this weekend. Wind kept me in shore. DID THREE-PEAT our win of the annual neigborhood bluefish tourney Friday! Nice trophy capped by a chewed and battered Mackeral Rap Mag.