'Chinese finger grip' loops on fly lines

[albacized]

I know these little loops aren't really popular for many here and in fact, as constituted (held on with a heat shrink tube) I don't really care for them either. I'm sure we all have heard the stories....the one where someone is fighting a big striper or an albie and your entire leader (as well as the loop) in-explicitly comes off: I can certainly envision why that would happen.

Up until now, I have avoided those and basically just double over the fly line, creating a loop held with a nail knot. When I use shooting head, I put do the same on each end of the head as well as at the front of the running line. It has been somewhat successful although very clunky to cast.

Recently, I saw a line (perhaps an Orvis line???) which had one of these Chinese finger grip things attached via a nail knot (no shrink tube) and it drew my interest as to possibly applying a similar system on lines I have already. Has anyone attached these loops in that manner and has it been successful? At a glance, it looks a lot more reassuring when done this way....but that's only speculative since I haven't tried it.

[zimmjas]

I've used it on some of my lines and have had no problems (I haven't fought a 50# tuna on one though). I wrap some tying thread around where the braided mono ends along the fly line, then tie two speedy nail knots and finally cover those knots with Loon's knot sense. I also use a bit of glue on the tag end of the braided mono toward the base of the loop. I don't bother using any heat shrink tubing. I've met some people who do the above and then cover with heat shrink. I'd never soley rely on tubing alone. Trey Combs and Nick Currcione speak about braided mono loops positively in some of their books. As with any connection, I'd monitor it and make sure it's looking OK and change if necessary.

What's appealing about using braided mono at either end of the fly line is that the loop seems to me more durable than having the butt section constantly digging into the fly line as well as a much more slim connection for coming in/out of the tip. I've also used short pieces of braided mono inside loops formed with the fly line (only on the leader section of the fly line). This helps prevent the digging in of the leader into the fly line. Generally, these are on rods that I'm not too concerned in using a long leader. You'll notice your fly line loop will be much more bulky, but the loop gets added protection.

On the fly line-backing section, I've taken 30# braided mono and inserted it into the loop of the backing's bimini to help prevent the gelspun backing from cutting into the fly line loop. If you do this, be sure to use a long enough piece of braided mono so that it's not sliding inside the bimini loop.

[albacized]

Thanks for that...I'm going to take care of all my lines today. Btw, do these braided mono loops hold well on the more slick coated clear lines?

[scruffy_fish]

Don't use any knot that only holds the clear line cover only!

Several years ago I lost a huge Albie (big, really big) to a nail knot backing/ to a clear line. Lost fish, fly, leader, and the whole fly line because the coating stripped off the core of the fly line. :eek:

I now use an albright on all my backing knots.

[DAQ]

I use the braided loops on several of my fly lines and have not had an issue. I do put two or three nail knots along it with light fluoro and then a drop of Zap A Gap on each. I use the shrink tube to cover over the frayed ends of the braid but have never trusted it to hold up to a fish.

D

[zimmjas]

Thanks for that...I'm going to take care of all my lines today. Btw, do these braided mono loops hold well on the more slick coated clear lines?

I've used fly line loops created with thread, nail knots and braided loops with no problems on mono fly lines. Just be sure when you use thread, make sure to wrap the thread around the arm of the bobbin a few times and spin it like hell. It needs to be tight! If you don't wrap the thread around the bobbin, the spool of thread will give while spinning and your tension is sacrificed.

When you spin the thread, you can easily break it if you spin it right up to the bobbin. Just be sure to leave a little thread left over. If you need more thread to finish up, just feed more thread by turning the spool for slack.

I think the use of mono fishing line to create the fly line loop via nail knots is probably the fastest way to create a loop and easiest to repair while OTW. I can't honestly say which loop method is best as I've never had a loop bust. Always coat your knots with something like Pilobond or Knot Sense so that you're not only protecting the knots but also to "smooth out" the knot which helps it travel through the guides. Don't just create a big blob of protectant over the knot.

[rhodyflyguy]

i had a similar experience to scruffy fish a few years back, when i ahd just really gotten into fly fishing. a fly shop had set up the line using a nail knot to connect the backing to fly line. they then coated it with some sort of glue. a month or so later, i was albie fishing behind a shrimper in florida. i had already boated a fish that went just over 19 lbs. on a boga grip. my next cast, i hooked up again and as soon as the fly line goes into the water, my rod straightens. i reel in my backing to see a nail iknot in tact in the glue with no fly line to be found.

[Strat]

If you make your own loops out of 50# braided mono they will never fail. I use them on albies/bonito/SBFT every year and they are great - nothing goes throught the guides more smoothly. You can find step by step instructions on Dan Blanton's website including pictures. All you need to secure the loop to the line is a trap nail knot with 12# mono.

[houdini]

I've never had a problem with the loops provided you put them on as follows. After you thread them on (completely on), add some ZapAGap on the braid near the end with the shrink tube. Not a lot - the loop gets to stiff.
I use them for the terminal end and the backing end. I've never had one pull loose and it makes changing out lines a snap.

[sage fly guy]

Big game fisherman who run dacron use the blind splice for adding topshots for targeting 1000# marlin, they hold up decent enough. I use blind spliced dacron for every connection I can.

If anyone has any question how to do one right, shoot me an email.

When done right it will NEVER fail. Ever.

chris