Draining gas issue

[albacized]

Hi everyone,
I have a small 4 hp (Suzuki) 4 stroke motor with an built in gas tank. I don't want to leave gas in it for the winter (although for now, I'm not done using it yet). My question is....would running the motor with the choke open be an effective way to burn the fuel quicker? It's only a one gallon tank...so even in the worst scenario, I lose about $2.20.

My thought is to take the boat down to a local lake and run around not too far (like less than 100 yards) from the ramp until it runs out of gas..then row back to the shore. Is this advisable?

[G-Man]

I assume the fuel line is not accessable, and can't simply disconnect and drain the tank? That does not drain the carb bowl tho does it? Hmm.

Such small motor. Can you just fill a trash bucket with water and let it run for a while in the yard? That small an engine might even just be air cooled and don't need the water.

You'll get it sorted.

[The GAFFMAN]

Siphen what you can out of the tank, than place the engine it in a barrel full of water let it run the remainder of the gas in the system run out! Open a few beers and wait, Sure beats rowing ;)

[DaleH]

FWIW I've seen MORE problems with OBs being "run dry" that when properly stored with stabilized fuel. The lines and carbs are less likely to "gum up" when the line or bowl is filled up with treated fuel.

Try as you might, you will NEVER get all the fuel out of it and what's left, will go bad fast, faster if not treated. Sure, run it low, but ... I myself wouldn't run it, or any other horsepower, OB dry.

Edit: Also store it straight up in a vertical position, never lie it on its back or side for storage.

[Ken Buke]

What is a good stabilizer for the corn oil we now use?

I thought it went bad after 30 day reguardless of the stabilizer...

[DaleH]

I thought it went bad after 30 day ...
It'll lose octane, but should be preserved from varnishing or gumming via the stabilizer. Octone lose on a small OB won't matter when you can fill the entire tank up with fresh fuel.

In my big tank, I plan on leaving 10-20% remaining, which will be stabilized, and the OB fogged. Then I'll add at least twice that, which was remaining, of higher octane fuel in the Spring 2007.

[socfish]

Reel-Rascal,

What brand stabilizer do you plan to use for your large fuel tank? What do you add to prevent moisture build-up in your tank if you leave it close to empty? I think your storage plan coupled with a hi-octane fill up in the spring is the best I have heard so far.

Thanks

[DaleH]

What brand stabilizer do you plan to use for your large fuel tank?For fuel stabilizers I have used Seafoam, Sta-Bil, Star-Brite's version, and Stor-N-Start. I've never had a problem with any of them and usually buy the cheapest I can get on sale.

Just due to the new E10 formulation though, I will probably treat the tank/OB with Star*Tron by StarBrite company, as it's been getting some good reviews as of late.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/content/Item/01/83/12/i018312vr02.jpg

What do you add to prevent moisture build-up in your tank if you leave it close to empty?Nothing ... I'll let my Racor handle that and any moisture buildup from condensation is minimal compared to a bad tank of fuel IMHO.

FWIW, Boat/US released a position paper advising boat owners to do one of 2 things, (1) run the tank as LOW as possible, or (2) fill it to 95% full. In both cases treat the fuel with stabilizer of course.

I think option #1 is the smarter route ... so now I plan on leaving the tank as empty as I can reasonably achieve. Let's just hope the fuel prices are low next Spring ;) !

[Breakwater]

I completely agree.

keep the small tanks full. keep the big tanks empty.

however, i disagree with the startron stuff. The whole point of ethanol is to remove water from the fuel. Adding the startron is just like adding more alchohol.

I plan on the same 10-20% of stabilised gas in tanks over the winter.

[DaleH]

however, i disagree with the startron stuff. The whole point of ethanol is to remove water from the fuel. Adding the startron is just like adding more alchohol.Sir, I believe you are quite mistaken in your assessment of the StarTron product by Star*Brite company contributing to an alcohol problem or making a potential alcohol problem worse.

From reading the MSDS for it, it is 95% a naptha-based petroleum (as is Seafoam, which also treats and stabilizes gasoline) with the rest being the enzyme additives. I don't see any statement or ingredient where it is methyl or ethyl alcohol based. But I'm not a chemist ;) .

MSDS (http://www.starbrite.com/msdssheets/93008%2Dmsds%2D3%2D30%2D06%2Epdf) for StarTron

Fact Sheet (http://www.starbrite.com/whatsnew/2004%20BoatUS%20Ad%20(Startron).PDF) for StarTron (by the seller)

[Breakwater]

The isssue that the startron stuff deals with is "growth" in the fuel-tank.
Growth, or fungus, as we all know is created by stale moisture, condensation, etc.

Ethanol is great in removing water from the tank, therefore, if there is no water, there is no growth.

(now, while the ethanol removes this water, it creates broken-down gas, which is why you need Stabilizer)

Sure the startron is made with enzymes to kill the growth, but what does it do if there is no growth to kill?

either way, the stuff costs 5-15 dollars, so nobody is going to break the bank if they toss some into thier tanks.

[DAQ]

Rich,

If you want, we could use your motor as a kicker on my boat the next time I take it out. I'm sure we will go far enough to burn the fuel up.

D

[G-Man]

FWIW, Boat/US released a position paper advising boat owners to do one of 2 things, (1) run the tank as LOW as possible, or (2) fill it to 95% full. In both cases treat the fuel with stabilizer of course.

I think option #1 is the smarter route ... so now I plan on leaving the tank as empty as I can reasonably achieve. Let's just hope the fuel prices are low next Spring ;) !

Sorry to beat this to death .. but..

How about those of use that have removeable tanks?
I can take the gas and put in in my car, but what about the gas in the carbs and fuel line?

Should I add stabilizer to my last tank of gas to ensure some is in the engine?
Does stabilizer prevent the build up in the carbs of this old gas? Is that even an issue? 1996 6hp Merc 2 stroke ...3 carbs.
Thx
-G

[DaleH]

How about those of use that have removeable tanks?Run as low as to empty or use fuel in another engine, if no TC-W3 added, but see below ...

Should I add stabilizer to my last tank of gas to ensure some is in the engine?Yes, by all means. I start adding it now, as I'm still using mine, but in case a huuricane comes up the coast in October, as is a potential to happen, I can haul it out and know that the tank and OB have treated fuel in them.

Does stabilizer prevent the build up in the carbs of this old gas? Is that even an issue?Yes, it is an issue. You should be using a fuel stabilizer, whether or not you've used E10 fuel or the old MTBE fuel.

And yes, fuel treated with stabilizer will protect the carbs "as long as" you've mixed it into the fuel properly and give time for it to run through the motor. In fact, that's why I advise to NEVER run an OB dry. Fuel degrades by oxidation ... when you keep the line full of treated fuel, there's no air to start the oxidation process. When you run the OB dry, you suck the bolws and lines dry ... now air can react with what little fuel is left there (even if treated).

My bro's and I have never ever had to rebuild a carb once due to crap in it or from winter storage. I believe a little PM, proper winter storage fogging, and fuel stabilization goes a long way to prevent issues. FWIW we've been running 8 to a dozen outboards between the 4 of us for at least the last 10+ years, and 4 or more for the past 20-30.

[Ken Buke]

No matter what, I always add stabilt to the gas and run it in fresh water. Fog and leave engine down.

The only question is whether or not to drain, fill or 20% fill.

[G-Man]

Thanks RR.
I'll get some stabilzer asap.

1 more question ..
I changed out my gear oil in Sept (late start).
Should I still change it out before winterizing?
In case any water seeped in ... is that the practice?

Another question...
Also, last winter I took the motor off and kept it in the garage on a stand I built. Mainly because I was working on the boat hull, etc.

I'm thinking whether if I should do that again?
It's a minor hassle, but the garage stays above freezing.
Think it's worth the trouble?
Thx
-G

[DaleH]

I changed out my gear oil in Sept (late start). Should I still change it out before winterizing? In case any water seeped in ... is that the practice?Given what you write, I would drain just enough to make sure that what's in there isn't milky, which would indicate the presence of water mixed with the oil. Then just top off.

Also, last winter I took the motor off and kept it in the garage on a stand I built. It's a minor hassle, but the garage stays above freezing.No need to ... as long as the OB is properly fogged.

You can also spray CRC Corrosion Block or similar (but I don't advise using WD40) onto places on the head where you made need some off-season protection, dynamic parts, i.e., linkages, etc.

When you do your lower unit, pull your prop off to make sure no stray fishing line has built up behind the thrust washer that's up next to the lower unit, behind the prop. If mono/line builds up, it can blow the propshaft seal. Then leave prop off for the winter if outside theft is an issue. Re-grease the splines before installing with a good waterproof blue-colored synthetic grease like OMC/Bomb's "Triple Guard" grease. All OB makers sell their version, but the OMC/Bomb is the cheapest ... and believe me ... it's all the SAME product.

Ask away if any other winterizing questions ...

[G-Man]

Thanks buddy ... great info!

If you don't mind the questions ... I got another.
My rear anchor light is one of those removeable pole types you see on freshwater bassboats. I thought I put some dielectric grease in there, but there's a good bit of that buildup you see on battery terminals and such. The light still works .. for now... but that build will be a problem eventually.

Kinda hard to clean it out... 2 small posts down in a 1" hole and small female connectors in the light post. I'm wondering how to clean that crap outta there. A buddy suggested baking soda and water, but I have not tried it yet.
Any ideas?

[DaleH]

If you don't mind the questions ... I got another ... rear anchor light removeable pole types.

Kinda hard to clean it out... 2 small posts down in a 1" hole and small female connectors in the light post.This is where you can use WD40 or similar, I know what your friend means well, but you don't want any more water down that hole.

I'd beg or borrow a rifle/pistol cleaning kit off of a friend. 45-caliber rifle/pistol to 20-gauge shotgun copper/SS cleaning brushes work really well. You need to move it around inside there AND spin it so you clean all sides of both contacts, flushing the gunk out well with the solvent. A 22LR brush might work on the female contacts, or use a smaller-than-hole drill bit. Then keep the female ends packed with the di-el grease, it's great stuff!

I'd also remove the light base and check to make sure you have liquid electrical tape on the back ends of those male connections (i.e., no exposed wires, and coat the back of the connection as needed), as that is more likely where corrosion would build up. You can also do a resistance check on each pin to each connection where that particular (+) or (-) run terminates (switch or buss), to see if any corrosion is being built-up in the wiring or connectors.

[G-Man]

That makes good sense ... WD40 ... find a good tiny brush ... ideally wire.
Then load back up with di-el grease. I can handle that.

My electric motor connector is getting fritzy on me too. I bet the same treatment would help.
Thank you.

ps. Ordered that Merc manual ... should be here in couple weeks.
Motor has been running really well last couple trips ... knock on wood.
I may have a question or 3 for ya once I start digging into that manual. ;)