Tuna stick question

[Slappy]

I am looking at my winter projects and want to ask a question before all the tuna guys leave the site...

I am going to make a tuna spinning rod this winter, specifically for casting the lighter stuff. With heavier stuff, I would rather use a conventional.

For this type of rod, what are the features that you like best?

If you use an ugly stick, please don't respond. :rolleyes: --126-3-

[Ray]

Eric,

I'll bring my St. Croix Premier 7' foot tonight for you to checkout. I was able to easlier cast 1 oz metals with it. But it has a great backbone too. I bet the new 7'-6" version would cast the light stuff even better.

Ray

[soundownsam]

Check out the Calstar 700m or maybe an 800m that you could cut to get the action you wanted.

sam

[Slappy]

I think I found the blank I want, I'm thinking about handle lengths, guide types, reel seat types...

[plumisland]

I have the high end first light spinning rods the aluminum reel seats/thru handles they use are nice stuff. this rod is everything I could want. its a handfull jigging the butterflies with but I can put the blocks to some large fish with these things. it will snap light tins a mile.

[SherpaT]

Just curious, you going with Graphite or Glass?

[Lucky]

Fuji Concept double foot "heavy duty" guides (BMNAG)


American Tackle has a series that starts with a 50 guide which is nice for bigger reels like the penn 9500 or the big new fin nor's. Also double foot.

Aftco reel seat
Aftco gimbal but matching reel seat
I like a long butt grip - 13-15 inches. EVA foam, shaped.

Double wrap all guides with an underwrap.

PM me if you have any other questions.

[Slappy]

Just curious, you going with Graphite or Glass?

Graphite.

Lucky, I will check out those guides.

[z-drive]

shorter butt grip; much easier to cast. dont have mine with me, but will measure.

those aluminum/graphite hybrid type reelseats seem good because theyre lighter than all aluminum seats. the bands are solid aluminum.

[sage fly guy]

Graphite.

Lucky, I will check out those guides.



?Spiral wrapped?

Inquiring minds want to know.:)

chris

[S\\'E]

Eric,

I'll bring my St. Croix Premier 7' foot tonight for you to checkout. I was able to easlier cast 1 oz metals with it. But it has a great backbone too. I bet the new 7'-6" version would cast the light stuff even better.

Ray

The 7'6" St. Croix SWS76MHF is a great tuna stick. Soft tip and lots of power. For a production rod it's almost perfect.

I haven't really used too many of the butterfly jigging rods on the market as they're a little short, but I bet in some companies line there's a stick or two that are ideal for what we do, if a little short.

I'm having something custom built this winter I think.

[Slappy]

?Spiral wrapped?

Inquiring minds want to know.:)

chris


Spinner.

What do you guys prefer for a foregrip length?

I am looking for a bit heavier guides, in SIC--this will be a rod rated at 50-80.

[sage fly guy]

Check out the Alconite's from Fuji, great for braid and rock solid. I've used them on a bunch of custom stix and have not a single complaint.

What blank you building it on??

chris

[Slappy]

Check out the Alconite's from Fuji, great for braid and rock solid. I've used them on a bunch of custom stix and have not a single complaint.

What blank you building it on??

chris

I'm leaning toward the Wahoo.

I haven't seen any guide frames that I would describe as heavy duty spinning guides. Fuji seems to have either the standard weight ones or boat rod guides. I also sent a PM to Billy.

I prefer SICs because of how the line feels going over them. I haven't tried the alconites and I hate hardaloys.

[north coast]

So, what did you decide on for a blank?
I may build something myself pretty soon. havn't really looked at much yet.

I found the guides I want to use (sic's) just don't know about the blank

[Slappy]

So, what did you decide on for a blank?
I may build something myself pretty soon. havn't really looked at much yet.

I found the guides I want to use (sic's) just don't know about the blank


Chris recommended the GUSA Wahoo blank. I'm leaning toward that one.

I hear that GUSA has had some problem filling orders of late though, so I am starting to think of plan B just in case.

[sage fly guy]

I'd like to build a Wahoo this winter also, have the Predator and Baby Predator, and they are absolute whoopin' stix.

GUSA always seems to be behind on orders, they let them build up and then do a big run. Ask Vivona if he is puttting together an order for them, he did a couple three years ago and it worked out well.

I can PM you an email address for probably the best builder on the west coast, he turns more custom gusa spinners than anyone, he would love to offer some recommendations for guides and grip lengths, seats, etc.

chris

[Slappy]

Chris that email address would be great--I have never built a heavy spinner before--until braid, I always avoided spinners for lines over 4#.

[Hunter]

Slappy,

I have been building rods for years both professionally and lately for my friends. Last year I built a very nice tuna spinning rod, to date it has handled fish from 40 - 80 lbs. It throws plugs, metal, and jigs very nicely. I recently fought a 125 + lb fish for 1.75 hrs on the rod and finally broke the fish off as the rod was a bit over powered and I couldn't turn its' head. I subsequently took 4" off of the tip and 4" off of the butt and the rod has stiffened up nicely. This is what I used for components:
Calstar Grafighter Blank - 7 'Model # GF700M
Fuji Silicon Guides NSG 30, 20, 16, 10, 10, 8, 8
Fuji Tiptop PST 10/9
12" Hypalon fore grip
14" Hypalon rear grip
Fuji DPSD-24S reel seat
Fuji GC255 gimbal
All off the components were purchased via Mudhole Tackle Supply

Good Luck!

HUNTER II

[Soundking]

Slap-ster! The only thing I would like to see in a tuna stick is a very short foregrip. I can't find a rod built to allow a technical fighter to layeth the smacketh down when a tuna is dug in. I think that the longer foregrips on some sticks work, but I would love something that would let me lower the fulcrum point in the blank and really whoop arse. I would like to see that combined with a longer butt section that would allow me to tuck the rod under my armpit on the retrieve with tin, or on the butterfly jig. I believe fuji has new titanium components (the guides used on the new st. croix inshore elite series) that will help bring the overall weight of the rod down. Also, I think the primary challenge of finding an ideal tuna stick is you need a rod that can cast a mile, but still be a good stand-up fighting tool. This is why I think a longer butt section would allow you to put more power into your casts without sacrificing the fighting power of the rod. I would also like to see something that would be light enough to enable me to put wrist action on the retrieve (and at the same time be responsive enough to give me that "feel" for what the lure is doing). Sometimes, you need that subtle nuace in lure action.

[OceanRunner]

Forget the rod project, focus on perfecting JJ's Dogfish NunChucks: just think about it - unlimited raw material, nearly unlimited googans - and now you're armed for tuna feeds on the SWC/NWC :)

[e-sea-e]

slappy, I dont know dick about rod building, but after using the trevela rods this year I have to agree with soundking- the lower fulcrum point makes a huge difference- sooooo much easier to lift, way easier on the lower back, dosent tire the angler out, youre not fighting to keep the rod up. A rod I bought last year had a long foregrip- I thought it would give me good leverage. Just the opposite- the long foregrip pushed the fulcrum point so high, the rod was really tough for anything over 50 lbs. I landed an 80 lb'er with it and thought i was going to need back surgery, and it took 30 minutes. the trevelas all have a short fore grip and a fairly lenthy reargrip, but not so much that it pushes the fulcrum point up the rod. check out the lengths of the rear/fore grips on the trevela F series XXH 5'8" spinning rod, or the 6'3" MH rod to get an idea of the proportions. ive landed alot of tuna with them this year, the grip lenth seems to be just right. an 80 lb'er on the 5'8" rod is under 15 minutes, every time. the 6'3" may take a bit longer, but not much. Its because with the low fulcrum point you can really put it to a fish, without feeling like your gonna blow out your back. If your building a longer rod, you'd have to adjust, but Im sure a smart dude like you could get the same proportions on a longer rod.