Re-Power Merc, Honda, Tohatsu, or Suzuki

[BigBoatDog]

I am looking to re-power the current boat with a 50-75hp motor that could be transferred later to it's replacement.
Here are the basic requirements:
Price
Reliability
Volume of noise from the engine
Low speed operation for trolling
Included equipment (controls etc.)
Weight of the engine is important on this boat, less so on next boat.
Servicability
Not necessariily in that order.
I am still looking for a project boat.
BBD

[DaleH]

Used or new?

That'll help resolve the 2-stroke vs. 4-stroke choice. If it were me I'd consider any of these (listed alphabetically) Evinrude E-Tec, Suzuki, or Yamaha.


But ... to me, that range from 50hp to 75hp is HUGE on boats the size that could take those motors. One OB could be a dog and be lugging (which is terrible on the life of a motor) and the other could be a screamer!

One SURE thing to buy by is the dealer you will use. If asked, I'd rate the top dealers on the North shore are for the motors 'I' listed above as being: Ipswich OB in Ipswich for the Evinrude, Cape Ann Marine in Glostah for the Suzuki, and Baert Marine in Middleton for the Yummie.

[BigBoatDog]

DaleH,
Thankyou for replying. I was already thinking E-Tec for two stroke and Suzuki for four stroke. I have heard only good reports on these motors.
No opinion on Tohatsu? Or Merc?
BBD

[tommat]

I am a Yamaha guy. I know of a few people that have had bad luck with their E-tecs. My local SEa Tow outfit being one of them. People seem to love their Suzuki's. I have never heard a bad word about Honda's other then they weigh more then the other 4 stokes out there. I have never been a big Merc fan. Having said all of this I would go, Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki, E-tec,Merc, if it was my money.

[capemike88]

I'd go with either an ETEC or the new susuki's, havent heard to much negative on any of them.

Mike

[DaleH]

DaleH,
No opinion on Tohatsu? Or Merc?
You know, I always 'forget' about Tohatsu (Nissan is the same OB) but I had an 8hp that was bulletproof! I shouldn't have sold it :( . Only 'tough' part is their dealer network is thin around here. I had to buy parts on-line, but luckily it was for a full waterpump/impeller service kit. And even better, I could do it myself.

Can you get their TLDI in 60hp or 75hp? If Tohatsu made a >= 225hp OB in their TLDI models, I'd buy one! Dealer service will still be a concern, at least for a rig the size I have.

I don't care for Mercs, never had, so I really can't comment on them other guys Im know with ~15hp or less Mercs have no complaints.

[fishingdan]

The dealer network for tohatsu is thin, but the 50 or 70 tldi is a rock solid engine. I wouldn't hesitate to buy one.

[DAQ]

BBD,

I'm not sure where on the N shore you are located but there is a Tohatsu dealer, Boats and Motors, in Wakefield. They are very reasonable, easy to deal with and very helpful. You may want to check them out.

D

[Kuskus68]

I like the Honda if you go with the 50 it is one of the lightest 50 hp out there.

[BigBoatDog]

This brings up the controls question: What are the length limitations if and when this motor is put on a different boat? Steering cables tend to be fairly rigid. Can metering, starting,and shift cables be longer to make a change like this possible? Without dipping into the wallet?
BBD

[DaleH]

What are the length limitations if and when this motor is put on a different boat? Steering cables tend to be fairly rigid.
The steering cable itself, not the helm unit, would need to be replaced if going longer. No practicla limitations there, cable cost <= 20' would ballpark $100.

Can metering, starting,and shift cables be longer to make a change like this possible? Without dipping into the wallet?
You can use Morse type 33 cables that have adapators to fit various motors. As is, that thread pattern is what Yamaha uses and they make thred-on adaptors for all other motors. I wouldn't lengthen cables, just replace them.

Your biggest challenge when fussing between brands would be your ignition and main OB harness, that plugs up the gauges. You could go 'analog' and stay generic, with your ignition switch not on your control binnacle and then tap your harness into your existing wiring/gauge setup. This is what I do.

But with some of these newer and 'smarter' motors, I think you're better off going with their gauges with all of the idiot lights and sensors intact. They do make extension kits for engine harnesses.