Trout Fly Rod Q

[capecodkid]

I'm looking for a fly rod that could possibly do double duty in the Western MA Rivers (Swift, Deerfield) along with the kettle ponds on the cape. Is there a rod that can throw tiny midges in the rivers along with streamers in the ponds? Looking at a 4 or a 5 weight. Price isn't an issue. Thanks.

[jsynnott]

If price isn't an issue (a quote I will never be able to utter) I would highly recommend the Zero G, the new Rod from Orvis. I had a day on a small VT stream with a Zero G 4wt (proto type) and that rod is "like budduh".
I was picking up 40 feet of line and dropping dries and streamers with minimal effort. I thought I had it good with my sage 4wt but after casting the Zero G I felt like I was going back to a poverty stick with all the action of branch. (granted it was a low end Sage)

[lowwall]

I am building a rod by a NH manufacturer that is really nice
http://www.greatbayrods.com/

Also just bought a switch rod from these guys,
http://www.beulahusa.com

There guide series rods come with an extra tip. Which could save a trip some day.

Both MFG's have 100% waranties

I like a 6 weight for the cape ponds to punch through the wind. If I could only have one rod it waould be a 5 weight. There is a reason thet are so popular.

[gseries69]

The issue will be sinking lines. Most line companies don't make full sinking lines in a 4 weight. I think Rio has just started to produce some sinkers for a 4 weight but I don't know how they perform. The other issue depending on your casting style is action. I like a slower action rod for rivers because I feel you can mend line better and helps make a softer presentation when using dries. In addition, there's really no reason to cast long distances in rivers. It's more about line control. On stills it's a different story. The longer the cast the more time your fly is in the water. Faster action rods help most people cast farther. I use a Scott G series in a 4 weight for river fishing and for stills I use a Loomis GLX in a 4 weight and line it up with a 5 wt full sinking clear line.

[Strat]

Virtually any 9' 5 or 6wt will do what you want to do. The ability to throw midges and streamers in various situations is a product of the caster's skill, not the rod, regardless of price. This is especially true for trout fishing where presentation is king...

[capecodkid]

Thanks guys I'll look into them. Will probably eventually buy 2, one for each job.

[smcisaac]

If price isn't an issue (a quote I will never be able to utter) I would highly recommend the Zero G, the new Rod from Orvis. I had a day on a small VT stream with a Zero G 4wt (proto type) and that rod is "like budduh".
I was picking up 40 feet of line and dropping dries and streamers with minimal effort. I thought I had it good with my sage 4wt but after casting the Zero G I felt like I was going back to a poverty stick with all the action of branch. (granted it was a low end Sage)


The newest rod from Orvis is the Helios. The Zero G was the previous big product overhaul Orvis did (they seem to occur with distressing frequency). Based on early reviews, the Helios is a big improvement over the Zero G. Other premium models to look into might be the Z-Axis by Sage and the StreamDance by Loomis.

If you only buy one, make it a 9' 5 weight. If you can afford two, consider a shorter, more delicate 4 or 5 weight for western Mass rivers and a longer, stiffer 6 weight for the cape ponds. Loomis makes the StreamDance, for example, in Presentation, High Line Speed, and Max Line Speed versions.

If you do a google search on "5 weight shootout", you'll see an interesting comparison of 9x5's that a Montana fly shop did a year or two ago. Keep in mind that longer, stiffer rods are more popular on bigger Western rivers, though.

[gseries69]

CCK,

I was browsing through one of the new catalogs and Rio is making a density compensating 4wt line in a type 4 and 6. I'm going to try them this spring. For stills you'll want 3-4 lines; a floater for midge fishing in early spring and the very occassional dry fly opportunity, a type I or II clear intermediate and a density comp full sink. That will allow you to fish all regions of the water column. I personally like the 4wts for stillwaters because I mostly fish backwoods brook trout ponds in the Adirondacks. A big fish is 16 inches and I only get a few like that per year, if any. The average is closer to 12-15 inches. Being brook trout, they just don't fight that hard so a 4wt is plenty of rod and using full sinking lines helps with any wind which is usually a non issue because the waters are so small and surounded by trees in the ADKs. I also like the 4wt for streams even though most rivers up here have bows. A wild bow will fight much harder then a stocked fish but I still find the 4wt to be plenty of rod. Out west is a different story. The rivers I fish up here in VT are again fairly small, I don't need to cast very far. A 40' cast is usually more then enough and it's more of a mending game. Out west, especially since you'll be using a floater, a 4 will probably be light in a good wind, plus you're usually dealing with larger and more wild or native fish. The other thing to remember as was said above is that your skill is more important then what rod you have. Most important is to get out and fish as much as possible, especially on the stills. There is far less literature out there on stillwaters versus rivers so there is a fair amount of trial and error that goes along with it. Learn when and how to use each line and leader combination and the rod your using will be of little consequence.

[jsynnott]

Thanks for the correction, it was the Helios I casted and it spoiled me. Should never have picked it up b/c I can never afford it.