Keeping up on electrical connections

[fleshfly]

I am in my second season of a new CC, and I was curious to what things I should be doing to maintain my various electrical connections in the following areas to prevent corrosion, as well prep it for shrink wrapping.

1.) The bilge,-pumps for raw wash & livewell

2.)Compartment that does get some dampness that holds :the gas fliter, and a few electircal connections for lights, and what looks to be(and I could be wrong)the outboard. I could be wrond.

3.) Console with flush mounted electronics(vhf, gps, sonar, instruments), dual batteries with a switch, and the fuse box which is open under the console that has the most intimidating mess of wires that are very difficult to access.

I was under the impression that you could lightly spray the connections with a silicone spray light liquid wrench, or apply electrical connectivty paste for preventive measures. Any ideas? Thanks -Randy

[SHORTFIN]

I used to use T-9 Boeshield with good results

[DaleH]

I've had Boeshield T9 gum up moving parts before, so I don't recommend it on or near any MOVING parts.

To me, for your concern, is not having that shrink-wrap so tight and closed you promote fungus and mildew growth in that boat. Make sure to add vents and even the expen$ive zippered door some vendors offer.

[z-drive]

i've only been doing this a matter of years myself but so far this is what i have learned with the help of some experienced people who helped me out:

when it comes to anti-corrosion spray, i'm kind of open to suggestions for what to use on the electrical stuff. i throw some wd-40 on my motor. we used that red spray stuff in my school days but it kind of makes a mess. i would discconnect and remove your batteries for the winter. easy to do maintenance on them and give them a quick charge in the spring.

i personally run rv/boat non toxic antifreeze through the pump and all parts of the boat that water could collect in. obviously you want it bow-up with the drains open, but i still put some in the bilge and fish boxes....there always seems to be somewhere for water to collect. leave all hatches and whatnot open. that includes all small inspection hatches and anchor lockers etc. to get antifreeze in the washdown/baitwell pump, you can disconnect the hose at the thru-hull and stick it in a jug of antifreeze or water/antifreeze solution. once it comes out the other end you can put it back on the thru-hull. check the owners manual on the pump to make sure its ok to use.

i would remove that season old water seporator, or at the very lease unthread it and lubricate the threads. they magically sieze up over the winter. plus it will be full of rust and crud come spring either way. they seem to be overlooked come winterizing time.

if you can, take the elctronics out and leave them indoors. just my preferance.

[fleshfly]

Thanks for the insight everyone.

Dale, The ventalation idea is very helpful, as the mold has been an issue this year. I have been keeping up on it. If I go the zipper route, would that require going in an checking up on the boat through the course of the winter.....

Thanks,

Randy

[z-drive]

the overpriced zipper is kind of there so you can get in and inspect the boat and or do work on it while its covered. best bet though is to just keep every possible thing open over the course of the winter regardless of how its covered.