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  #166  
Old 10-13-2009, 10:48 AM
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Go Fish Go Fish is offline
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Wayne,

It will be too difficult to explain the measurements and the math without a picture. I'll work something up and post it here in the near future.
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  #167  
Old 10-13-2009, 12:48 PM
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DaleH DaleH is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatkenny View Post

What happened to the dude sweet stratos racing stripes and logo? Please put them back on!
Agreed! You're quite right ... she looks kinda bare otherwise ...

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  #168  
Old 10-13-2009, 08:56 PM
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Now you tell me... I just finished removing the gawd awful black and blue stripes from my Stratos...
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  #169  
Old 10-14-2009, 11:00 AM
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Go Fish Go Fish is offline
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Please use the picture below to follow along with this description.

Ultimately we want to figure out the distance labeled h. This value is the distance from the point of the keel to the top of the bracket deck as measured directly on the surface of the transom. Figuring this distance is complicated by the height adjustment for the motor required by the offset from the transom by the bracket and the transom angle.

The rule of thumb I used to get the ball rolling is: “The cavitation plate on the motor lower unit needs to be 1” higher than the keel for every foot of bracket set-back.” Keep in mind that this is a rule of thumb, different hull shapes may need slightly more or less adjustment of the cavitation plate location. This can be addressed later on by choosing different mounting holes on the outboard.

First we have to locate the cavitation plate relative to the keel, motor mounting holes and bracket mounting holes:

On the outboard, measure the distance x from the top of the cavitation plate to the center of the middle mounting hole on the outboard. From the distance x, subtract the distance y measured from the center of the mounting hole on the bracket to the top surface of the bracket deck.

If you add the height adjustment that you calculated from the rule of thumb you will end up with the distance z. The distance z is the location of the top of the bracket deck relative to the keel of the boat.

(x-y) + (offset height adjustment) = z

Because the transom is angled, you can’t directly transfer z to the transom. You have to take into account the angle, A. If you sort through the cobwebs in your skull that used to be your knowledge of high school geometry you will remember that the cosine of angle A is equal to z/h. If you rearrange the equation to solve for h you end up with:

h = z/cos A

There is a very easy way to measure the angle A that uses a standard carpenters square. Click on THIS LINK for instructions.

Once you have the value of h you can just slap a tape measure on the transom and mark off the spot where the top deck of your bracket needs to be located on the transom.

I got lucky and the rule of thumb worked out perfectly. Chances are once you get it all set up and sea trial the boat you will need to go up or down a bit using the motor mounting holes. The goal is to get the cavitation plate riding at or just above the surface of the water when the boat is on plane.

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  #170  
Old 10-15-2009, 01:58 AM
wayno60 wayno60 is offline
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How can one man know so much??

mate thank you.
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  #171  
Old 12-17-2009, 02:13 AM
Trarajaks
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Transom Rebuild

Have 1998 quicksilver 270 never had a motor on till this year. Put on a 9.8 evinrude to use with my son. Heres the problem hit a log, found out that I had dry rot around the motor mounting plate. Since it never had a motor the paint and everything else looked prefect. Any suggestions on what I can do to fix this or replace the whole transom?

Thanks
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  #172  
Old 12-28-2009, 10:28 PM
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DaleH DaleH is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trarajaks View Post
Have 1998 quicksilver 270 never had a motor on till this year. Put on a 9.8 evinrude to use with my son. Heres the problem hit a log, found out that I had dry rot around the motor mounting plate. Since it never had a motor the paint and everything else looked prefect. Any suggestions on what I can do to fix this or replace the whole transom?
Can you give us more details? Pictures? Is the boat glass or aluminum? If aluminum, see and click this link here.

If glass, you can cut out the rot and pour in Seacast, see http://transomrepair.com/zk/literature.shtml
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  #173  
Old 12-29-2009, 10:46 AM
browndog browndog is offline
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I believe it's a Mercury Marine inflatable.
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  #174  
Old 10-25-2011, 05:40 PM
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Kevin - I'm still in awe of how you tackled this project. Very nice work.

Do you have any other pics of your arch/console?

How are you liking your bracket? I spoke to those people about a floatation style bracket for my Seacraft. Their brackets look nice enough and they're considerably cheaper than than a Hermco fiberglass bracket @ $2500.
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  #175  
Old 10-26-2011, 01:31 PM
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Go Fish Go Fish is offline
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TF-

What sort of pictures of the arch/console are you looking for? I'm happy to shoot some for you this weekend if I don't have any that fit the bill.

I'm happy with the bracket. It is holding up very well...still looks new. If I did it again I'd stick with the same company but I'd spend the extra few hundred bucks for a wider deck. Probably in the 6.5-7 foot wide range. It is a little sketchy finding a good footing when you have to get out on it to untangle something or "use the facilities".
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  #176  
Old 10-27-2011, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albiemanmike View Post
I love this CHIT!!!! You go Kevin it looks awesome and you are doing a pro job on it I can't wait for the next installment. I just had to order a new trim and tilt control relay for the Honda. First big part I have ever had to replace in over 1700 hrs. of use. I found it online for $199.00 so I was pretty happy that it wasn't going to cost me hundreds.
Thats a good price Mike those Hondas run and run had over 5000 hrs on my 50 still running when I sold it!
Ive since upgraded to a Yamaha 60..
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