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  #1  
Old 08-10-2009, 09:00 PM
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pametfisher pametfisher is offline
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Hollow Spectra VI: Windon Leader Field Test Photos

A little over a week ago, we got to read the exciting story Heartbreak Is ......, about a long 4 hour 45 minute fight with an 80" class Bluefin that ended with a broken Owner hook just as it was about to be "stuck".

A part of that story was that they had agreed to try my new spliced-leader design. The key parts being a new small no-glue, no-wrap Serve and a short 12" splice that has been designed for casting distance and to withstand the high speed trips through the guides that come with spin-casting.

I got the leader they used back this past weekend and have been dissecting it to see how it fared. I was interested in whether the Splice or Serve had moved, whether the Loop to Loop had worn, and whether the tag end of the mono had started to chafe the hollow Spectra. I also examined the Triple Surgeon's Loop that they had used for the mainline loop.

Other than the expected, cosmetic abrasion of the Jinkai mono near the terminal tackle end from rubbing against the fish, the Splice, Serve, loops, and loop to loop were undamaged, photos below.

The Triple Surgeon's knot used for the mainline loop was solid as a rock and showed no signs of slipping or fatigue.

Although the results for the Serve and Splice are particular to my design implementation, the single loop to loop connection (which was squeezed to a dot) between a windon leader and a triple Surgeon's in the mainline can stand up to a very long fight with a big fish.
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Last edited by pametfisher; 08-10-2009 at 09:02 PM..
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  #2  
Old 08-10-2009, 10:13 PM
riptide riptide is offline
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I'd like to thank Roger for letting me be a part of the testing of his new wind-on's. They cast a mile and obviously hold up under some huge strain. Looking forward to beating up on this new batch
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  #3  
Old 08-11-2009, 08:32 AM
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excellent analysis, thanks for sharing
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  #4  
Old 08-11-2009, 09:47 AM
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Great analysis Pamerfisher, really appreciate your loop to loop series. I am new to it and practicing my leader construction and have a few questions.

- I have made up a dozen loops in #80 JB using copper 24 gauge wire. I sometimes struggle a bit getting the wire started through the side of the line and after poking through several times finally get it started down the middle. This sometimes results if a few strands, like lite wisps of fuzz, not a major strand or anything. Is this significant to line strength? Should I throw these out and use only the "perfect" ones?

- I thought i read in earlier posts you were using single wall hollow in your leader splice and serve to leader. It looks like the hollow core is doubled on the leader to serve in below. I this what works best to keep a short splice that is still good for casting?

Thank you for all your help.
George
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  #5  
Old 08-11-2009, 10:30 AM
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pametfisher pametfisher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anut View Post
Great analysis Pamerfisher, really appreciate your loop to loop series. I am new to it and practicing my leader construction and have a few questions.

- I have made up a dozen loops in #80 JB using copper 24 gauge wire. I sometimes struggle a bit getting the wire started through the side of the line and after poking through several times finally get it started down the middle. This sometimes results if a few strands, like lite wisps of fuzz, not a major strand or anything. Is this significant to line strength? Should I throw these out and use only the "perfect" ones?

- I thought i read in earlier posts you were using single wall hollow in your leader splice and serve to leader. It looks like the hollow core is doubled on the leader to serve in below. I this what works best to keep a short splice that is still good for casting?

Thank you for all your help.
George
George,
It's hard to say if the wisps are bad or not but I think they're okay.

Here's how I look at it. The first (inside/out) splice in an end loop carries all the load so that is the one to get right--of course it's the trickiest too. If the wisps are not a thread, and are where you first insert the needle, that is okay. The reason is because the place where you first put the needle in has very little load when you are done. The tag that you bury (although it's critical) carries almost no load. That second splice really is the Serve for the first splice. The key is don't use any if you damage the part of the line that will carry load.

My hands are large and not super steady. Believe it or not, after you've done this enough, it will get VERY easy. You will make them quickly and perfectly every time. If I can do it, anyone can.

My leader design is unlike any other. I'm using a special Serve that has no glue and no added top wrapping. I call it a Pressure Serve or for short a PK Serve. That is the reason I can make a short Splice. The Splice is 12" in my case although 3" would work fine. I go to 12" so that I have 100% redundancy with the PK Serve. And yes, good eyes, it is a double-wall splice.

I have gone with the new design because I wanted a Serve that could carry 100% without glue and top wrapping thread so that it would stand up to a day of aggressive casting and still be 100% when that fish of a lifetime struck. In the case of Riptide's fish, the theory worked until the hook broke after a 4 hr. 45 min. fight.

If you look in the attached photo, you can see how I've proven to myself where the forces fall. It also let me determine that 3-6" Splice sections (2 per end loop) are more than enough.

PF
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  #6  
Old 08-11-2009, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pametfisher View Post
George,
It's hard to say if the wisps are bad or not but I think they're okay.

Here's how I look at it. The first (inside/out) splice in an end loop carries all the load so that is the one to get right--of course it's the trickiest too. If the wisps are not a thread, and are where you first insert the needle, that is okay. The reason is because the place where you first put the needle in has very little load when you are done. The tag that you bury (although it's critical) carries almost no load. That second splice really is the Serve for the first splice. The key is don't use any if you damage the part of the line that will carry load.

My hands are large and not super steady. Believe it or not, after you've done this enough, it will get VERY easy. You will make them quickly and perfectly every time. If I can do it, anyone can.

My leader design is unlike any other. I'm using a special Serve that has no glue and no added top wrapping. I call it a Pressure Serve or for short a PK Serve. That is the reason I can make a short Splice. The Splice is 12" in my case although 3" would work fine. I go to 12" so that I have 100% redundancy with the PK Serve. And yes, good eyes, it is a double-wall splice.

I have gone with the new design because I wanted a Serve that could carry 100% without glue and top wrapping thread so that it would stand up to a day of aggressive casting and still be 100% when that fish of a lifetime struck. In the case of Riptide's fish, the theory worked until the hook broke after a 4 hr. 45 min. fight.

If you look in the attached photo, you can see how I've proven to myself where the forces fall. It also let me determine that 3-6" Splice sections (2 per end loop) are more than enough.

PF
PF,

Yea, i will practice more, have some 28 guage that may help. It is the fat fingers that need to get nimble. I used a full 12" for both sections of the loop splice. My intention is to use for casting (as will as jigging) and in interest of keeping it short, are you inserting the mono/flouro within the second 12" of the loop serve (where to tag is back into the main line)? Tough to tell in photos. Seems like it should work and keep it short so that less (loops/serves/leader) is on the spool when casting.

On the fray, good point, slight tufts on the first wire insert should not be an issue as that will not be carryign much load. The second wire insert is more of a concern as it is in the main (to bury the tag). This concern on the second wire insert will "go away" if this is also where I serve the leader as any "fray" is now not carrying load. From your load carrying posts this makes sense to me.

How do you serve with pressure? Secret sauce? I am using the JB glue and thread.

I really am liking the looks of this loop to loop. Casted a few on land with 2 oz on the st Croux and it would seem my troubles (Slim Beauty flouro figure 8 wacking the tip guide with 80# or more leader) are solved.

Thanks again!
George
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  #7  
Old 08-29-2009, 08:10 AM
nikonfme nikonfme is offline
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Are your wind on's being sold?

Just curious what make your wind on's so castable. I use a bimini on my main and a loop to loop using a shimano fluro. It's terrible for casting. Would love a wind on that you can cast. So, are yours available now?
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  #8  
Old 08-29-2009, 10:18 AM
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pametfisher pametfisher is offline
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The reasons they are castable are:
-short splice, flexible splice, no glue
-small, flexible serve, no glue
-thin Serve, no wrapping thread
-flexible leader materials
-leader length

The reasons they stand up to casting are:
-no wrapping thread to come off
-no glue to come loose

Yes, they are available now, thank you for asking. I will PM you.

Last edited by pametfisher; 08-29-2009 at 10:22 AM..
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  #9  
Old 09-01-2009, 12:16 PM
jfm815 jfm815 is offline
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Very interesting posts. Newbie to fishing for BFT in CC Bay. Pametfisher where can your leaders be bought.
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  #10  
Old 09-01-2009, 02:50 PM
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I sent you a PM
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Old 09-01-2009, 03:02 PM
justin080799 justin080799 is offline
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Thumbs up Windo on's

I bought two of the wind on's from Roger to test and gave one to a friend who landed a very large tuna with it. I have also used them on the Riptide. We tie a tripple surgeons loop on the main line to connect to the loop on the wind on.
SWEET connection

These cast very well and have held up great.
Rob
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