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james difede · #1 07-10-2002, 09:08 AM

Hello everyone: I just received a Pungo Angler as a birthday gift and have started "getting acquanted" with it on a small pond on the Cape before I take it on to open water in an effort to expand my fly fishing "reach". The Pungo handles very nicely, and it was selected based on the feedback of members of this group. I have practiced rolling the Pungo on its side on being dumped in the water so that I am prepared in event this happens when out in open water, and am having a heck of a time figuring out what to do next. The Pungo can be flipped back over so that it is upright, but it is so full of water at that point that I cannot enter the boat withour it rolling on its side again. I have tried using a hand held bilge pump to take some of the water out while I myself am still in the water, but that is a massive amount of work. Any suggestions from folks who use the Pungo would be very much appreciated. Thanks, Jim

Bob Parsons · #2 07-10-2002, 09:22 AM

I've used those handpumps in varous boats when in the boat with water. In the long run an old fashion bailer works best. Take a plastic milk jug, probably quart size and trim off the bottom. Get one with a screw on cap and handle.

Getting in is easier if you have one of those paddle floats so you can use your paddle as a brace when getting back in.
Some yakkers use a big sponge to get the last of the water out.

Wes · #3 07-10-2002, 10:15 AM

In addition to Bob's comments, you might try to displace more volume in the cockpit with flotation, less water to deal with might be part of the solution. See if you can fit some air bags, you'll want them secured in the boat so they can't float out.

rockfisherman · #4 07-10-2002, 10:21 AM

I'm with Bob. A clorox bottle with the bottom cut out makes a good bailer. You can tether the bottle to the yak with a short piece of rope and stash it behind the seat.

I have floatation bags fore and aft, too, which reduces the amount of water the yak will take on.

And a paddle float.

I don't venture far from shore, and fish in protected waters. I think I would kick paddle back to shore and deal with it there if at all possible.

joev · #5 07-10-2002, 12:11 PM

Jim Pungo is hard to get back in.
Use a bailer to empty water like they said.Also get a rear flotation bag and a paddle float.I was able to bail half the water out of yak then do a flop into cockpit and finish bailing.Wasnt pretty but got back in.Might be less effort to get to shore and do it there.Make sure you have a rope tied to the front of yak and store it under deck bungee.Then you can hook it to your pfd and swim it in.
I used 2 flush mount rod holders in the back to wedge the bag in .
JoeV

james difede · #6 07-10-2002, 12:27 PM

Thanks to those of your responding to my inquiry. Sounds like there really is no "magic" that makes the job easier. Just good practical advice. THanks again.

Jim

SamRiley · #7 07-10-2002, 01:46 PM

I don't have a Pungo but the way my yak is designed there is a bulkhead immediately behind my seat. The stern is a watertight compartment. When I roll, all I have to do is keep the yak upside down and while treading water, lift the bow out up. This drains most of the water and the rest can usually be sponged up. There is now way that I would be able to do this though if it weren't for my years as a waterpolo player and the float bags I keep in the bow

Thanks for sharing your trial and errors with us

ekg · #8 07-10-2002, 02:50 PM

A quick and cheap method to add flotation to any boat: Stand your boat up on end. Get a large can of instant foam insulation and a heavy duty trash bag. The foam can comes with an extension nozzle, put it on the an and wire tie the open end of the trash bag around it. Now put the bag closed end down into your boat. The Idea is to fill thebag with faom in the boat so that as the foam expands it molds itself to the shape of the boat way up in the pointy end. Read the can and make sure the bag you use is larger than the expanded volume of the foam. The wire tie is to make sure all the foam goes where it belongs. I used the super heavy duty contractor bags.To finsh let the foam set and remove the can. Clip the nozzle extension flush to the foam. You can use more than one can or use a large size one. Make sure to get the high volume foam and remember the stuff is sticky and just about impossible to clean off. Done right the foam filled bags stay put untill you want them out. You may have to remove the foam in sections depending on your boats shape, but any serrated kitchen knife will cut the cured foam.EKG

kcsmes · #9 07-10-2002, 04:47 PM

This thread makes me happy for my SOT (at least for this time of year). I was thinking the same thing last week watching two guys try to launch their sit ins in the surf. They had to abort and pump them out twice before they even got started. Do these have any floatation that keeps them (and the water in them) a little higher than the open water level? Would a siphon work?

joev · #10 07-10-2002, 10:28 PM

KCSMES Thats why I bought a Tarpon.I think all SINKs keep your arse below the water line.
JoeV

adson · #11 07-24-2002, 05:10 PM

one option is to put an air bag in the bow and stern
many touring kayaks without bulkheads use them
they keep the water in the cockpit down to a more manageable volume.

some guys have pumps that are foot operated and even battery powered versions.

the time you really need that pump out is probably at the same time you need to be paddling to stay upright and get out of the waves etc.

RJ · #12 07-25-2002, 07:15 AM

Jim,

Happy to see you made the move to the Cape. I'm envious!
Great Question!

ekg - I'm liking the foam filling tip! The space behind the Pungo seat is for all intents and purposes "dead space" except for the storing of small stuff that can be accomodated in small waterproof pouches set along the cockpit sides. Check out small insulated lunch bags that sell for about 4 bucks each. ( I use them for shot gun shell bags, dry storage for gloves and other small items sunglasses, duck calls, gps, etc.) Currently on sale at most Ames's Stores for $2.99.

Since we are talking space filling - use medium and large clorex bottles wedged under the decks to provide floation. They are cheap and easily removed. They are easily cut and shapped into a bailer, should you so happen to swamp das boot!

In the fall, I use duck decoys as additional floatation going to and from my duck hunting spots.

Birdman · #13 07-25-2002, 03:14 PM

i just bought two Pungos. With two people out i am less concerned (not unconcerned!) about roll overs but solo is a different story. I made my two daughters prove to me they could re-enter using a paddle float. The older (17) could, the younger (13) couldn't. I also proved it to myself! Our rule is no solo voyages until this is mastered.
I think getting back in w/o a paddle float would be impossible. A swamped Yak has absolutely no stability. Even if it could be done it would take many attempts and exhaustion would set in - faster in cold water.
I was very glad we all tried this out as we all now have a healthy respect for the difficulty and will be far less daring in our exploits.
Every yakker should master this technique.

ruge13 · #14 07-25-2002, 03:27 PM

I am sure everyone will disagree with the technique for safety reasons but, not having paddle floats (lazy I guess) I have used, but do not recomend (only if in a pinch) my PFD as a paddle float. Until I used some sort of float I cold never get back in my boat. Now I can. I am not saying use it, paddle floats are definately on top of my to do list, but if in a pinch the PFD will work....

ekg · #15 07-25-2002, 11:47 PM

Paddle floats are not expensive. Besieds if you are entering your boat from a steep bank or a floating dock they make life much easier. I have lots of space behind the seat on my Loon and I keep my spare paddle and other hope I don't need it stuff back there. But the paddle float is where I can get it easily.I hope to need the extra stability to get the proverbial 50 pounder safely into the boat. EKG