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Old 04-27-2006, 01:57 PM
Ken Buke Ken Buke is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Easton, Boating Quincy
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Removing corrosion from copper wire?

Someone used non-marine wire on my new-to-me skiff...I don't want to remove the whole length, just solder the end.

But, the copper is all black and won't take the solder...Tried to use acetone and wire brush...

Anyone with a better idea?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-27-2006, 02:02 PM
joel joel is offline
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Location: framingham
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nitric acid, if you can find it - i cleaned off the (breass? copper?) contacts of a headlamp that wasn't working last year this way - it worked great.
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Old 04-27-2006, 02:09 PM
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featherbaiter featherbaiter is offline
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If it is single strand wire, sandpaper, flux then solder. This will also work on multi strand, just not as well. The other option is to scrape it clean with a sharp knife.
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Old 04-27-2006, 02:51 PM
anythinggoes anythinggoes is offline
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sandpaper will do it

Fine sandpaper will take care of it. Get it nice and clean and the flux will do the rest.
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Old 04-27-2006, 03:28 PM
ember ember is offline
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Location: East Harwich MA
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To each his own,but somewhere in the dim recesses of my mind I remember being taught that one does not use flux,or flux core solder for electrical repairs.That would be for plumbing.The only acceptable solder is labeled 50/50 rosin core.Beleive it or not,the modern approach is a crimp connector that has a heatshrink covering with heat activated glue inside.Clean the wire as best you can,apply a (very)little dielectric,use the proper tool,properly,heat until the goo just oozes out, and you will have every bit as electrically sound connection that will last longer than a soldered one.
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Old 04-27-2006, 03:58 PM
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DaleH DaleH is offline
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Location: Parker River, MA
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Originally Posted by featherbaiter
If it is single strand wire, sandpaper, flux then solder.
Per BIA, ABYC, and other marine standards of good practice ... single-strand wire has no place on a boat. I'd go to would rewire it correctly ... you're only looking at one wire. If that run had corrosion, I bet the rest does, you'll soon be fighting a losing battle.

That said, yes I have "added" a length to a run to replace a corroded section, and it lasted fine for the 5+ years I held onto the boat and it was working when I sold it. Back then I used butt crimp connectors covered with 5200 and then added heat-shrink covers, sealed by liquid e-tape on the ends. Today I'd use HS connectors covered by adhesive-lined HS.
"Life is too short to own an ugly boat ... !"
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Old 04-27-2006, 07:34 PM
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wfmdfm wfmdfm is offline
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Location: Middleboro, Ma
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I work in the electrical field. Flux is used as a cleaner for the conductor and helps the solder flow. I agree that soild wire has no place on a boat. The stranded wire can be scraped up or sandpapered, or wire brush till it shines and loses most of the gree you can between strands. Slide on a piece of heat shrink that will cover the connector and over lap the insulation by about 1/2". Then get the flux on the wire asap. Put some fulx in the connector-put the two together and solder. Although as stated some solder has flux in it, in the case of extreme corosion it will only help to put on after cleaning. Once the connection is installed and cool clean off all extra flux. I have used this method on connections to under water transom anods and the jumper wire last year after year .
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