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  #1  
Old 04-09-2011, 05:54 PM
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Go Fish Go Fish is offline
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Pimpin' My Skiff

Well...it's spring. Time to start an over ambitious boat project.

Maya made me get a cute little 16 foot aluminum skiff last season to take her lake fishing and to the beach. While she approved of the boat I brought home, a 2002 Crestliner Sportsman 16 with a 25 horse Merc tiller, she was a bit bent that it didn't have a deck. Being 2 feet tall, she had a bit of trouble keeping her balance standing on the dry side of the running surface. I can't resist my little girl so I decided to just give in and build her a deck for her new boat.

Here is the reference image:



The plan is to core the new deck with 1/2" exterior ply, encapsulate it with some thin glass and epoxy and paint it with some rubberized non-slip deck paint. It should be pretty slick when it's done.

Today I stripped off the stuff that was going to get in the way and then set to cutting templates. I made about 4 zillion measurements, transfered them to 1/4" plywood and then cut the rough shapes. Quite a bit of time was spent with a grinder shaving little bits off of the rough shapes until they fit into their respective spots.

The friut of todays labor:



She really wanted a casting deck forward with tons of room for storage underneath it so I decided to go from the forward bench seat all the way to the bow. There should be room for alot of wet storage, a couple of dry storage hatches and the battery for the troling motor...

Oh yeah...she said she wanted to turn this little boat into a a bay and flats machine. I figure a trolling motor, some descretely installed electronics (including a stereo for the beach trips) and a jack plate to get the motor up and out should do the trick. If I can manage to set the jack plate up right this thing will run on wet grass.
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Old 04-09-2011, 09:04 PM
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Oh ..how cool!
All for Maya .... that's funny.

Look forward to seeing this one.
You do excellent work.
-G
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  #3  
Old 04-11-2011, 01:40 PM
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Check out these cool little jack plates:

http://tsgcustom.com/Manual.aspx

I didn't think I'd be able to find anything designed specifically for small motors but I was wrong...what the hell did we do before there was internet?
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:58 PM
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I had every intention of getting something done on the boat tonight but my little helper had other ideas:

Shameless Father Pride Video
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  #5  
Old 04-12-2011, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Go Fish View Post
... and a jack plate to get the motor up and out should do the trick. If I can manage to set the jack plate up right this thing will run on wet grass.
Do you really need that if you're adding a trolling motor? Also, a a fixed jackplate will give you the setback and allow you to raise the motor a tad, but I doubt you'd get more than an inch of rise on a tin boat. So I'd go with the fixed setback plate.

Or, if you want power trim, I have an old CMC power tilt/trim unit with 6" setback that will be less for you than those j-plates. See what your little girl says about that ... lift, setback, and power trim & tilt? Ohhh baby!
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:24 AM
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Haha ..that vid ...brings back some fond memories.
"Yup .. fixed it."

Now mine's 16!
They warned me it would happen fast ...sheesh.

Please don't leave out any details on this project.

I had a tin boat before & I hope to get one again in a few years.
I have the ole lectrics still in the shed for the occasion.

Can you show a pic of the underside of the lower decking?
How did you support ... given the curve of hull.
I cut 2x4s and covered with resin ...wonder what you did.

-G
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Man View Post
Can you show a pic of the underside of the lower decking? How did you support ... given the curve of hull.
If your hull doesn't have much V, you don't need the floor flat at all, but then again - there's no 2-year old running around in my skiffs.

I put 1/2" PT plywood in, just laid upon the gussets where the running bottom meets the topsides, and covered in indoor/outdoor carpeting. When you step on it, it naturally flexes a tad, but was always secure under foot.

If a typical 3-seat across hull, I have a neat trick I can show you to install it so they stay in place, without any fasteners needed. But I'll have to post the picture sometime ... or PM me and I'll email it to you.
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  #8  
Old 04-13-2011, 12:15 PM
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G-

The "deck" in the pictures above are just templates cut in 1/4 plywood. I wanted something easy to shape so I could get all of the curves and angles right by grinding material off of the rough cut 1/4" plywood shapes.

The next step is to transfer the templates to 1/2" exterior plywood.

My goal is to make this a "floating deck" so I can easily remove it to clean the bilge and get access to wiring and plumbing that will be installed. I've got what I think is a slick way to stiffen everything up without adding much weight...but you will have to stay tuned for that.
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:50 PM
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Progress has been exceptionally slow. The young portion of my family has been requiring my time. It is hard to justify working on the boat, even if it is her boat, when there is crying and other assorted drama going on.

My goal with this project is to add as little weight as possible and allow easy removal of the deck I'm installing. Additionally, I don't want to poke any holes in the aluminum skin. So, this "floating" deck will have to be stiff where it isn't fastened to the hull or parts that are welded to the hull.

My solution is to add ribs to the underside of the deck:





What you are looking at is 7/16 base shoe opposed to make a half round with the long sides perpandicular to the undreside of the deck. The bit between the underside of the deck and the rib will get a fillet of thickened epoxy before I apply 2 layers of 17 oz. biaxial glass.

Stiffness is commng from the glass. The base shoe is there just to make the glass take that shape.
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Last edited by Go Fish; 04-22-2011 at 06:45 AM..
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  #10  
Old 04-27-2011, 12:31 PM
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I've got some progress to report. It is a pittiful amount based on the time elapsed since my last post, but, it is progress.

I had a bit of a false start in laying out the ribs for the bow/casting deck section. I neglected to design in provisions for a hatch. After tearing up the base moulding I had stuck down with Gorilla Glue and monel staples (not very fun) I layed the ribs out so there is a space to cut out for a 13" x 30" hatch.

The dotted red lines show approximately where the underside of the deck will make contact with structural portions of the hull. The bow section will be screwed to the bulkheads that currently support the forward bench seat and a cross brace that is forward of the hatch cut-out. The mid section will simply rest on the chines and the aft section will rest on the chines and get screwed to a low bulk head near the aft of the boat (the dotted rectangle section)


I was able to get a coat of epoxy on the ply wood. The next steps will be to coat the ribs with epoxy, lay in fillets and then overlay the ribs with 4" wide 17 oz biaxial tape. The bottom of the deck will be finished with a top sheet of 17 oz. biaxial cloth.

I'm going to watch the space shuttle launch this weekend so it's going to be a while before I get a chance to work on this again...hopefully I'll be abelt to get it done before the end of the season
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:52 PM
CobiaMoby CobiaMoby is offline
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I did that with a jon boat for fly casting in the FFO trout ponds. It had a front and rear deck so two people could cast from either end. I covered mine with indoor /outdoor carpet to cut down on the noise and splinters in your feet. We had a blast with that thing until the ice slid off the roof
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  #12  
Old 05-02-2011, 09:27 AM
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I managed to squeeze in a bit of work last night because the girls went to bed early. The couple of hours available allowed me to get the fillets layed in on all of the ribs.

I used a pretty neat trick that I picked up from another boat building website that essentially adapted a cake decorating technique to the application of thickened epoxy. After thickening up some epoxy with a good bit of colloidal silica I scooped it into a plastic bag, squeezed it all to one corner and clipped the tip off of the bag:



The thickened epoxy was squeezed out of the bag like a bead of caulk right into the corner between the underside of the deck and the ribs. It worked great! I was able to dispense all of a batch in a neat little bead right where it needed to be in a short amount of time. Getting the batch dispersed slowed down the "kick" of the epoxy and gave me plenty of time to smooth it into a nice fillet using the back side of a plastic soup spoon:





After I knock down all of the high spots with the grinder it'll get roughened up with some 150 grit sand paper and I'll start laying the biaxial glass over the ribs.

Go back up in this post and take a look at the "reference image" and think about this: I'm trying to come up with a good way to store 4 rigged 9 foot fly rods on the gunnels in the space between the top of the bench seats and the rail. My guess is it is going to involve some sort of custom fab and PVC tubes...but if one of you folks has a slick solution I would love to hear about it.
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  #13  
Old 05-02-2011, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Go Fish View Post
I'm trying to come up with a good way to store 4 rigged 9 foot fly rods on the gunnels in the space between the top of the bench seats and the rail.
Somewhere on my CP site someone took 8" diameter tubes and stowed them under the gunnel (in his case, it fit his boat like mine), where the tubes were hinged full length and he carries air tanks for scuba diving.

It might look like a torpedo in your case, sitting on the gunnels, but it just might work! I have some SS piano hinge or can get you some if needed/wanted.
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:00 PM
soundownsam soundownsam is offline
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Looks great. I am supposed to be rebuilding my duaghters' 17 Whaler, but, their mother wants the porch rebuilt.

Sam
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:22 PM
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Good idea with the plastic bag and spoon.
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