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  #16  
Old 03-24-2009, 08:31 AM
dcobbett dcobbett is offline
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Go-Fish,

A suggestion based on input I received when I redid the transom on my SeaCraft a couple of years ago: plan your cut s so that you minimize inside corners. They are a royal PIA to feather and sand out during the reconstruction. Much easier to work flats or outside corners.
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  #17  
Old 03-24-2009, 11:10 AM
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Kev,

Remember me telling you this very same thing this past summer?

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  #18  
Old 03-24-2009, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albiemanmike View Post
Just trying to find a good system for quick disconnect at the brace locations, something I can hand tighten and loosen without tools but still be rigid.
That combination "to me", without seeing it, wouldn't be possible. I think I'd opt for a screw-thread to tighten , but would back it up with another support, using a solid SS through-bolt or pin (neither threaded) to secure it and that used a thin-wire SS ring (think a key chain ring) as a 'cotter-type pin' to secure it in place.

That pin would be a back-up "Oh S$#t!" pin, that might save your noggin , in case the threaded one backed off in the waves.
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  #19  
Old 03-28-2009, 05:09 PM
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Saws-all's and angle grinders are a beautiful things. I made more dust today than I have in a long time. The project is comming along:



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  #20  
Old 03-29-2009, 09:44 AM
dcobbett dcobbett is offline
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Go Fish,

Just curious, those thin, parallel strips on edge running along the bottom parallel to the hull's centerline (in your last two photograp0hs), are they stringers or just gussets?
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  #21  
Old 03-29-2009, 11:33 AM
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e-sea-e e-sea-e is offline
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looking good kevin!
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  #22  
Old 03-29-2009, 12:16 PM
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dcorbett-

Those are the stringers. They're 3/4" marine ply glassed into the dull and deck. The new support for the upgraded transom will work off of them to add a solid foundation for the new motor.
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  #23  
Old 03-30-2009, 11:37 AM
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How were the existing old stringers? Did you drill or cut into any of them to check for water intrusion? They look pretty darn good in your picture!
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  #24  
Old 03-30-2009, 11:48 AM
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D-

In the second picture you can see where I ground the glass off the top of the stern end of the inboard stringer. It is bone dry and solid. I stuck a screwdriver into any exposed wood at limber holes or cut outs and it was all nice and solid as well.

I think my water intrusion problem happened from the outside inward and only soaked out the transom. The stringers seem fine.
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  #25  
Old 04-01-2009, 07:50 PM
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More Progress!

Today was sort of a turning point for me. First off I completely changed my aproach to this rebuild. I was originally going to do an outside-in rebuild meaning that I would cut the skin off of the outer transom to expose the wood and dig it out. Well...now I'm doing an inside out because of the way the transom was laid up originally:



The right hand side of that laminate structure in the picture above is the outer transom and it is about 1/2 inch thick glass. I now know why this boat is so freaking heavy for her size. As I suspected the core is two layers of 3/4 inch ply. That is NOT going to be fun to get out of there.

The first thing I did was cut the stringers back so I could get at the work a bit easier and to make room for the addition of the new transom core when it comes time. To get the inner skin off I scored the glass in strips and used a pry bar to work it loose:



The glass skin came off pretty easily...mostly because the wood is as wet as a Lab on a duck hunt and beginning to rot.

I made short work of the rest of the inner skin and as you can see, it is time to replace this core material. It looks like only the first layer of the ply is beginning to rot but it was only a matter of time before it it pulled away from the glass skin. At that point the integrity of the laminate would have been lost.



On a happy note, the stringers are good to go:



The next step is to hack all that wet wood out. I'm going to try and find something for my grinder that will cut wood quickly so I can dice it up like I did the skin and take it out in chunks. If anyone has any ideas please speak up.
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  #26  
Old 04-01-2009, 08:13 PM
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Boy are you flying! You'll end up much happier with the inside out; it's stronger and being sure of the stringers is key. Your transom is nowhere near the mulch-fest many are.

A good tool for removing the plywood, after some shallow scoring, is a long handled spud (ice-fishing chisel).
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  #27  
Old 04-01-2009, 09:41 PM
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Ouch ... I wudda left the existing stringers as long as original, if could be ...

Scarfing that ain't gonna be fun and I'd go for a 7:1 minimum.
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  #28  
Old 04-01-2009, 09:59 PM
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No scarfing needed.

I have a plan.

The new stringers portions addressing the transom and the cut back old stringers will be a copletely different animal...if you ever checked your messages you would already know what I'm thinking.
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  #29  
Old 04-01-2009, 11:00 PM
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i'm thinking kind of like an ice scraper, or wide chisel would work. i used a wide-a$$ chisel to remove old balsa core from a hatch i rebuilt. it may be tough to stomach but a circular saw with the depth set right would do well at "scoring" the wood.

for the grinder, they make "soft" disks you can put on 3-4 thick that are probably in the vicinity of 20 grit sandpaper. they're usually dark red and they will eat through almost anything in a matter of seconds. like these:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ite...pplies-_-1KYA2
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  #30  
Old 04-02-2009, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Go Fish View Post
No scarfing needed.

I have a plan.
I know ... I just wudda left them as close as possible to begin with ... always far easier to "cut off" a little bit more than it is to "add back on", your knee design notwithstanding.
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