Kirk
I used to have the same problem. The 6wt rod can easily be "overbent" thus
causing the convex rod tip path which leads to the loop. The 10wt rod
is much heavier and/or stiffer and is therefore mcuh more difficult to
over-bend - though it can be done. There are a number of solutions but
the most economical it to work on the cast itself - namely improving
your mechanics (apply the power to the 6wt LATER in the cast. A stiffer 6wtrod
may help because it is harder to overbend but that leaves you poorer in
casting skill and cash at the same time. I have been greatly pleased
with a recent purchace of George V Roberst casting video. Tailing
loops and all other maladies are addressed in this film. It cost me
somethiing like 40$ and its done more for my casting than anything else.
Give a hollar if you can use any more info.
Tight loops, Keith