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Page Rogers' Saltwater Classics Series |
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Copyright ©1997 Page Rogers |
Page’s Sand EelBy Page Rogers |
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In the waters where I have fished for years, there is no baitfish more prevalent or abundant than the American Sand Launce (or Lance), more commonly known as Sand Eels (Ammodytes americanus). The sand eel is an extremely important forage for all of the gamefish which frequent the Atlantic; everything from whales to yellowfin to striped bass have been seen gorging on sand eels. And with the decimation of other baitfish populations (like bunker), sand eels have become an even more important staple for the northeast gamefish’s diet. Lucky for us sand eels are thin and long, which makes them one of the easiest silhouettes to imitate in fly tying. In developing this fly pattern I was seeking to create a really bright pattern that would stand out from the thousands of naturals that are often around. I was also looking for a way to make a very durable fly that could take fish after fish without having to be tossed. The first incarnations of this pattern used a few different materials and were known as “mylar murderers”. They were sold exclusively in Larry’s Tackle Shop in Edgartown back in the early 80’s. Originally developed to take Island bones, the fly has proven to be one of the most reliable striper flies created. Gradually a number of different color combinations evolved, using this tying concept. Those recipes are all listed in Deke Meyer’s book, Saltwater Flies: Over 700 of the Best (Frank Amato, publisher). When I fish I usually have an entire box of these flies in a wide range of sizes and colors. In the early season I usually carry really large and very small ties. I have taken numerous bass in the 36-42” range on sizes 4 & 6. Go light on your drags and be patient in fighting your fish, and you won’t straighten out the hooks! The fly is available from your Umpqua Feather Merchants dealer. And if you need more detailed instructions, videotaped instruction is available in the tape “Sand Eels and Silversides” in the Hooked on Fly Tying series produced by Jim and Kelly Watt. Enjoy your fishing and your tying, and let me know how you do with this fly!
Tie thread on behind hook point, create a long thread rib and save in material clip, then bring bobbin to very rear of hook shank (right above barb). Tie on very sparse amounts of Mystic Bay Fly Fur. Begin with Polar White, top with Chartreuse, top with a few strands of olive and silver Flashabous; top with Moss Fly Fur. Tails should be as long as hook shank plus hook gap. Follow this rule of proportion, and you will always have a fly in proportion with the hook you are using. Cut a piece of large pearl mylar tubing 2.5 times length of hook shank. Remove inner core. With thread still at the back (having tied in tail materials), push the hollow tube of mylar tubing over the hook shank and tie down it’s left end (if you’re right-handed) with your thread. The rest of the mylar tubing should now extend well beyond hook eye. Gradually wrap the tying thread over the mylar tubing, up the entire length of hook shank, and bring it tight to the hook eye. Tie off thread.
Gently push the mylar tubing back over on itself, back down the hook shank.
With the thread rib, ( reserved in the material clip) tie off the mylar tubing. Be sure that you are holding the tubing firmly in your other hand. Tie it so that there are no wrinkles or bulges in the tubing. It should be very smooth and taught.. With scissors, trim off any extraneous mylar tubing fibers extending behind hook bend. |
Color top and sides of fly body with Berol Prismacolor marker #PM-24; color top only with #PM-28. Attach Witchcraft eye and paint on gill. Cover entire fly with a candy-thin shell of epoxy.Extend epoxy out a bit past end of hook shank, to prevent fly from fouling.
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Reel -Time Copyright ©1997 Reel-Time |
