Fly Pattern: The Sting

by Ken Hanley

The Sting is basically a design patterned after the high wing Aztec style developed by Californian Dick Nelson. I was impressed by the toughness of his flies, their adaptability, and the ease with which one could alter the wing's profile. In addition, I found "Doc" Nelson's technique for creating a synthetic wing to be perfect in my search for industrial strength salmon and steelhead streamers.

Antron is the key ingredient to creating my streamer. I recommend that you purchase the material "spooled." As this is being written, Hareline Dubbin is the only company that offers antron on individual spools instead of cards. Whichever way you opt to work, this carpet material will stand up to an amazing amount of piscatorial abuse!

The fly is somewhat reminiscent of the steelhead patterns created by our Northwest tying community. During an adventure afield with John Shewey, I was introduced to a pattern he called the "spawning purple." It was not only a beautiful tie to look at, but a productive fly in front of aggressive steelhead. His pattern's color scheme soon became the springboard for my saltwater streamer.

Materials List:

Hook: salmon/steelhead style, light wire, #4 - #1/0
(sample: TMC 7989, Partridge Bsrtleet, or Gaelic Supreme by Sprite)
Thread: Black 8/0
Tag: Silver tinsel thread
Tail: Antron, purple
Body & Underwing: Antron, purple, 8-9 spikes "Aztec style"
(6 spikes on smaller style hooks)
Throat: Marabou, red
Overwing: Squirrel tail, natural, sparse
1st Collar: 2 Chines saddle hackles, dyed claret (dark red)
2nd Collar: Guinea Fowl, one rump feather, dyed red
Head: Tying thread, whip finish and cement

Tying Sequence:

First prepare three strips of antron to be used to create the underwing. Each strip should be approximately 6 inches in length.

Put the remaining spool of antron on one of your bobbins.

Step One

Start the pattern by winding on a short tag with the silver tinsel thread. The initial starting position is about 3/4 back along the shank. I use about 12 turns until I'm over the point, then reverse the process back to the initial tie-in position. Add your tying thread just in front of the tinsel. Wrap the black thread backward to trap and tie off the tinsel.

Using one of the antron strips, you'll tie in a tail measuring the length of the hook shank. At the same tie-in point, attach your spooled antron to be used for wrapping the body.

Step Two

At this stage you'll begin to build the underwing by creating individual "spikes" from the antron strips. Measure a short piece of antron to match the tail (or previous spike). Lock it down with your tying thread first. Complete this segment by wrapping over the thread with your spooled antron, and then trapping the spooled antron once again with your tying thread. The spike you've just created is bomb-proof and independent from the rest of the underwing. With the use of this tying sequence, there's no chance of this fly exploding on you

Repeat this segment to design 8 to 9 spikes. The underwing will be complete when you reach the return wire of the hook's eye.

Step Three

You won't need the spooled antron any longer. Tie off the material and remove it.

Attach a beard of marabou. Tie down the overwing made of squirrel. Be sure to place the hair on in a low wing fashion. Don't use much pressure with the tying thread or you'll flair the hair, You can apply a drop of cement to the thread for extra insurance.

Step Four

To build the first collar, use two claret saddles. Each saddle will be applied tip first. Tie in and wrap each feather individually, The second "accent" collar is designed with a single rump feather. Apply it tip first as well.

To complete the fly, create a tapered head with your tying thread and whip finish. Cement the thread for added security. You can also apply a coating if black hard head finish if you prefer.